Monêtier-les-Bains: Around Aguillette du Lauzet

 

Aguillette du Lauzet
Aguillette du Lauzet


The following loop around the Aguillette du Lauzet Mountain (2717 m) is nicely described in Bernard Ranc’s great hiking guide Les plus belles randonnées des Alpes du Sud. The village of Le Lauzet is situated just some km northwest of Monêtier les Bains and less than 10 min by car. 

For most hikers, the biggest attraction seemed to be Le Grand Lac (2282 m), north of Le Lauzet. The starting point, Le Pont de l’Alpe (1710 m), for both hikes is by the main D1091 road.

Ascent from Pont de l'Alpe GR50
Ascent from Pont de l'Alpe GR50
L'Alpe du Lauzet
L'Alpe du Lauzet
Above l'Alpe du Lauzet
Above l'Alpe du Lauzet
Northern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet
Northern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet
Leaving GR57 for Col de l'Aguillette
Leaving GR57for Col d'Aguilllette

We started along the wide GR50 trail, having the steep western flank of the mountain to our right. At l’Alpe du Lauzet (1940 m), one trail forked left to the lake. We climbed northeast, towards Col du Chardonnet, following Torrent du Rif. There was a renown via ferrata to our right, and some climbers took advantage of that.

At the next crossroads (signpost), at about 2220 m, we reached the GR57 trail and forked right. We continued towards Col du Chardonnet. After several bends, we saw the unmarked trail at about 2400 m and forked right (image), leaving the GR57, and climbed to Col de l’Aguillette (2534 m). We continued almost horizontally along the eastern flank. Some parts of the trail were a bit exposed and the trail was narrow. 

Col de l'Aguillette
Col de l'Aguillette
Viewing Les Ecrins from Col de l'Aguillette
Viewing Les Ecrins from Col de l'Aguillette
Eastern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet
Eastern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet
Ibexes on Aguillette du Lauzet
Ibexes on Aguillette du Lauzet
View to La Guisane Valley
View to La Guisane Valley
Descending to GR50
Descending to GR50
Chemin du Roy GR50
Chemin du Roy GR50

We ignored the optional detour to the sub summit (2611 m). There were several ibexes on the nearby incline. We then followed the trail down to the valley and found a great spot for our picnic by the trail. We had super views south to the Ecrins Massif.


We descended along a path in the Rif Lanterne Valley until we reached GR50. We forked right and followed the comfortable path (Chemin du Roy), part of it in a magnificent forest, back to l’Alpe du Lauzet. We then descended back to our starting point.


Climb: 850 m


Distance: 10,7 km


Duration: 4h 50


Map: 3535 OT Névache Mont Thabor  


Aguillette du Lauzet hike track
Aguillette du Lauzet hike track



French toast with Parma ham and tomato vinaigrette

 

French toast with Parma ham and tomato vinaigrette
French toast with Parma ham and tomato vinaigrette

This twist of the classic French toast is inspired by a recipe of the Cheval Blanc restaurant in Paris. I have simplified the original recipe by Choosing avocado instead of green tomato sorbet and Italian passata to the tomato vinaigrette instead of making this from scratch. And of course, I use olive oil instead of butter.

This very tasty dish makes a nice lunch served with a green side salad.

2 servings

1 avocado, sliced

4 slices of Parma ham

Basil leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

For the tomato vinaigrette:

150 ml Italian passata, pref. organic

2 tbsp. good Italian balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp. tasty olive oil, pref. organic

For the French toast:

2 large slices of whole wheat toast

2 eggs

50 ml milk

Olive oil for frying


First make the tomato vinaigrette by whisking together the passata, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil. Keep in the fridge until needed.


Warm a generous amount of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Whisk together the eggs and milk and soak the toast slices in it. Fry until golden brown on both sides.


Meanwhile wash and slice the avocado.


Divide the tomato vinaigrette into two bowls and place the toast slices in the middle. Top with folded Parma ham slices, avocado, and some basil. Grind over some black pepper and serve.  


 


Ceillac: Lac Miroir

La Miroir eastern shore
Lac Miroir eastern shore

 Ceillac (1640 m) is an authentic Alpine Village in the heart of the Queyras Regional Natural Park. The renowned GR5 long distance hiking trail runs through Ceillac. The small village is surrounded by a wide valley with some agricultural and livestock activity.

Towards southeast, the Mélézet Valley is narrower, and is surrounded by steep forested mountain flanks. The GR5 trail starts to climb from Pied du Mélezet, close to a high waterfall, Cascade de la Pisse. 

We have previously hiked from Ceillac along the GR5 to the Ste-Anne Lake and Col Girardin. Today’s hike was much shorter, perfect on a day when thunderstorms were forecasted for the afternoon.

GR5 from Pied du Mélezet
GR5 from Pied du Mélezet
GR5 near Lac Miroir
GR5 near Lac Miroir
Swiss pine and Lac Miroir
Swiss pine and Lac Miroir

From Pied du Mélezet (1680 m), we ascended steeply in the woods along the GR5. The trail did not level out until just before Lac Miroir (2214 m). It was surrounded by Alpine meadows, larches, and Swiss pines, pinus cembra. In the south, were the majestic mountain massifs of Pics de la Font Sancte (3385 m) and Pic des Heuvières (3271 m).


After the lake, we forked left at a signpost (image), leaving the GR5. We descended rapidly along a nice path, then came to a wide gravel track. Poles were good to have as the descent was steep. Some guides instruct to continue along the track all the way to the valley, to Cime du Mélezet, then back to the starting point.


We took a shortcut along a path under a ski lift, and headed directly to Pied du Mélezet.


Signpost near Lac Miroir
Signpost near Lac Miroir
Trail back from Lac Miroir
Trail back from Lac Miroir
Pied du Mélézet and Ceillac
Pied du Mélezet and Ceillac

Duration: 3h 

Climb: 550 m

Distance: 7,5 km

Map: 3637 ET Guillestre


Lac Miroir hike track
Lac Miroir hike track


Veal cutlets stuffed with pesto

 

Veal cutlets stuffed with pesto


For this dish, you will need very thin veal or turkey cutlets. The ones which you find in supermarkets are pretty thick but they can easily be flattened at home. Place the cutlets between two film sheets and flatten with a baking roller or by gently pounding with your fist.

2 servings

2 large and thin veal or turkey cutlets

Olive oil

For the stuffing:

A handful of chopped parsley and basil

2 tbsp. grated parmesan

2 tbsp. sliced almonds

1 tsp. capers

1 tbsp. olive oil

½ clove garlic, minced

For the sauce:

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 shallot, minced

100 ml white wine

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


With a handheld mixer, purée all the stuffing ingredients. The stuffing does not need to be totally smooth. Divide it on the cutlets, fold them and fix with a cocktail stick. Place the cutlets in an oiled oven-proof dish and drizzle over a little olive oil. Roast for 20 minutes.


Meanwhile make the sauce. Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat and sauté the shallot for 5- 10 minutes. Add the white wine, mustard, and some black pepper and cook until reduced.


Divide the cutlets on the plates and pour the sauce over. Serve with roasted sweet potato slices or black rice and some greens. 


Ceillac: Col Tronchet

 

Col Trochet view southeast


Col Tronchet (2661 m) above Ceillac is one of the mountain passes connecting the Queyras Region with the Ubaye Valley. It is possible to drive about 6 km in the Mélézet Valley to the very end of the narrow but paved road to a parking (not paved; at 1965 m elev.), used mainly for hikes up to the Ste-Anne Lake.

Start to Col Tronchet
Start to Col Tronchet
Climbing to Col Tronchet
Climbing to Col Tronchet
Col Tronchet in sight
Col Tronchet in sight

Starting in the forest, we ascended along the main trail to about 2100 m where a signpost showed the itinerary both to the lake and Col Tronchet. We continued straight, heading to the southeast and eventually reached wide Alpine meadows, following Torrent du Tronchet.


To our right, we had Tête de Girardin (2876 m), and a bit further to the west, another ancient optical telegraph post on the ridge. Incidentally, we had visited such a post on Crête des Chambrettes the previous day. To our left, the sharp relief of Rocher de l’Eissassa (3048 m) was the only summit in the Tronchet sector reaching 3000 m.


Tête de Girardin
Tête de Girardin
View to west from Col Tronchet
View to west from Col Tronchet
Descent from Col Tronchet
Descent from Col Tronchet
Descent from Col Tronchet
Alpine meadow by the Tronchet trail

Today’s goal had been visible in front of us since leaving the forest. Nearing the mountain pass, the meadows were replaced by rockier and steeper terrain. The solitude was remarkable. There was just a sporadic hiker on the trail.


The final ascent was quite steep and the trail was narrow. Once on the col, we had views both to Ceillac and to the Chambeyron Massif with several 3000+ peaks on the south eastern side of the Ubaye Valley. The trail continued down to Maljasset.

We descended back along the same trail.


Distance: 7,5 km 


Climb: 690 m


Duration: 3h 40


Map: 3537ET Guillestre and 3637 OT Mont Viso


Col Tronchet hike track
Col Tronchet hike track



Oven-braised chicken thighs

 

Oven-braised chicken thighs



This is a warming dish to be made in autumn and winter. The choice of ingredients is not very different from the classic coq au vin but whole grain mustard, moutard à l’ancienne, gives the dish a special twist. 

Make this in a heavy cast-iron pot, cocotte, such as Le Creuset.

2 servings

4 chicken thighs with skin and bone

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 handfuls of sliced mushrooms

About 4 shallots, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp. whole grain mustard

100 ml chicken stock

100 ml white wine

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate


Preheat the oven to 200°C, roast.


Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Fry the chicken thighs on both sides until golden. Remove from the pot and set aside. 


Add the shallots, mushrooms, and garlic to the pot and cook for a few minutes stirring occasionally. Pour in the wine and chicken stock scraping up any browned bits. Stir in the whole grain mustard and return the chicken thighs skin side up nestling them into the mushrooms and shallots. Pour in any accumulated juices from the chicken. There should be enough liquid in the pot so that the chicken thighs are partly covered.  


Transfer the pot in the oven and braise uncovered for 40- 45 minutes. The chicken skin should be nicely browned and the meat very tender.


Serve the chicken with brown or black rice. Grind over some black pepper and sprinkle with chopped herbs.


Ceillac: Crête des Chambrettes

Optical telegraph post Chambrettes
Optical telegraph post Chambrettes

Situated in the Queyras Regional Nature Park, Ceillac is a true hikers’ mecca. A few days’ stay is just not enough to explore all the opportunities.

The following hike features a great loop above Ceillac, circling via the Chambrettes Ridge, Crête des Chambrettes

As late as in 1899/1900, the French army built a chain of optical telegraph posts* in the Alps. The purpose was to communicate between Nice and Lake Geneva (and beyond). One of these posts was built on Crête des Chambrettes on a spot where the ridge (2555 m) is narrow, only about 100 m from the highest point (2582 m).

GR58 above Ceillac
GR58 above Ceillac
Near Col de Bramousse
Near Col de Bramousse
Col de Bramousse
Col de Bramousse
Above Col de Bramousse
Above Col de Bramousse

We started from Ceillac (1640 m), followed the GR58 long distance trail passing the Ste-Cécile church where we headed north and soon ascended quite steeply in the Bois de Cheynet Forest towards Col de Bramousse (2251 m).


From the col, we forked right (east) along the GR58 variant, and continued the ascent, now above the tree line. Ignoring the detour to the Jean Grossan lookout point, we entered the southern flank of the ridge and climbed to the small stone hut tower restored in 1997. The views from here were simply stunning. The northern flank was precipitous.



Jean Grossan lookout point
Jean Grossan lookout point
Cristillan Valley
Cristillan Valley
Peaks south of Ceillac
Peaks south of Ceillac
Ceillac seen from Crête des Chambrettes
Ceillac seen from Crête des Chambrettes
Eastern Crête des Chambrettes
Eastern Crête des Chambrettes






We descended along the main trail to the east as far as to Col de Fromage (2301 m; a major crossroads of trails) where we forked right and descended along GR5/58 back to Ceillac, passing the hamlet of Villard in the Cristillan Valley.


Climb: 920 m


Distance : 12,4 km


Duration: 4h 50


Map: 3537 ET Guillestre Vars.Risoul PNR du Queyras (or 3537 OT)


* https://www.envie-de-queyras.com/guide/poste-optique-des-chambrettes



Near summit of Crête des Chambrettes
Near summit of Crête des Chambrettes
View west from Crête des Chambrettes
View west from Crête des Chambrettes
Return from Col Fromage
Return from Col Fromage

Crête des Chambrettes hike track
Crête des Chambrettes hike track

Spaghetti with mackerel and cherry tomatoes

 

Spaghetti with mackerel and cherry tomatoes


Mackerel is a good source of heart- healthy omega- 3 fatty acids. Being low in the food chain, it accumulates much less toxins and heavy metals than tuna or swordfish. If you find fresh mackerel fillets in your shops, this is a recipe to try.

2 servings

2- 3 mackerel fillets

10- 12 cherry tomatoes, halved

3 shallots, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tsp. small capers

Olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Whole wheat spaghetti for 2 servings

A good handful of chopped basil


Preheat the oven to 200° C, roast. Roast the mackerel fillets, skin side up, for 10 minutes. Remove the skin and cut the mackerel into smaller pieces. Set aside.


Meanwhile cook the spaghetti according to the advice on the package.


Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and sauté the cherry tomatoes, shallots, and garlic for 10 minutes. Add the capers, black pepper and the cooked and drained spaghetti and mix. Fold in the mackerel pieces and basil. Divide into bowls and serve.


St-Dalmas le Selvage: Around Tête de Cristel via three mountain passes



Col de Cime Plate
Col de Cime Plate

It is possible to make a loop around Tête de Cristel (2726 m) via three mountain passes: Col de la Braïssa (2599 m), Col de Cime Plate (2728 m) and Col de l’Escuzier (2487 m). Part of the itinerary runs in the Alpes de Haute Provence department.  It turned out to be a fantastic route in a pristine and tranquil Alpine environment. Note that one of the passes was higher than the peak we circled!


We have previously hiked to Col de la Braïssa (2599 m) and back from Refuge de Sestrière (2000 m; signpost #57) above Saint-Dalmas le Selvage.


From Nice, we drove north along the M2205 road in the Tinée Valley, turned left soon after Saint-Etienne de Tinée to St-Dalmas le Selvage (M63 road), drove through the village and continued along a narrow albeit paved road towards Col de la Moutière. We reached our starting point, Refuge de Sestrière, bordering the Mercantour National Park in about two hours.


Near Refuge Sestrière
Near Refuge Sestrière
Larch forest above Refuge Sestrière
Larch forest above Refuge Sestrière
Vallon de la Braïssa
Vallon de la Braïssa
Col de la Braïssa
Col de la Braïssa
Towards Col de Cime Plate
Towards Col de Cime Plate

The ascent to Col de Braïssa (signpost #59) in Vallon de la Braïssa took about 1 h 50, first in a magnificent larch forest. From the col, we headed north where the steep southern face of Col de Cime Plate was visible. We were in a complete wilderness. Mobile phone coverage was non-existent. We only saw marmots and vultures. Before Col de la Braïssa we met a few hikers, here none. The trail was marked with cairns here and there. The final ascent to Col de Cime Plate required some surefootedness along the zigzagging trail.


Col de Cime Plate marked the highest point of today’s itinerary. Seasoned hikers might wish to Climb to nearby Cime de la Plate (2770 m). Cime de la Bonette (2860 m) was visible in the north. Col de l’Escuzier, our third mountain pass today could be seen in front of Tête Ronde (2590 m). We descended quite steeply into Vallon de la Braissette, with Tête de Cristel on our right-hand side, and the Braissette Lakes to the left.


There was no marked trail on our map to our last col but a clear path leading there was visible. From the main trail, we forked right at 2434 m elev. and followed the path along a grassy incline to Col de l’Escuzier.  Vast grassy slopes with some streams and ponds comprised the eastern flank of the col. In places, there were rocky precipices. We now headed east, avoiding the wet and steep areas. We joined the paved road at about 2300 m elev. and descended along it to our starting point. Traffic was minimal, but we met a few tourists driving carefully and some sheep farmers driving not so prudently!

Nearing Col de Cime Plate
Nearing Col de Cime Plate
View north from Col de Cime Plate
View north from Col de Cime Plate
Ascending to Col de l'Escuzier
Ascending to Col de l'Escuzier
Col de l'Escuzier
Col de l'Escuzier

Climb: 850 m

Duration (active hiking): 5h 15  

Distance: 14 km

Map: 3639 OT Haut Tinée 1 Auron

Three cols hike track
Three cols hike track


Open vegetable sandwiches with goat cheese

 

Open vegetable sandwiches with goat cheese


These tasty small open sandwiches make a light lunch served with some green side salad. You could add some hummus with the salad.

2 servings

4 small slices of soft and fresh rye bread

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 shallot, sliced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 red bell pepper, sliced

1 green bell pepper, sliced

2 tasty tomatoes, sliced

4 slices of low- fat goat cheese


Warm the olive oil over medium heat in a frying pan. Sauté the vegetables until soft.


Divide the vegetables on the bread slices and top with goat cheese.