Monêtier-les-Bains: La Cucumelle hike

 

Above Col de la Cucumelle


When hiking near Serre Chevalier the day before, we observed the cone-shaped light coloured peak of la Cucumelle (2698 m) in the northwest. Studying the map, we found out that a trail goes to the summit from the Col de la Cucumelle (2501 m).

We took advantage of the le Bachas chairlift which in the summer season ran from Monêtier-les-Bains (1440 m) to 2174 m.

Near Bachas chairlift
Near Bachas chairlift
GR54 near Bachas
GR54 near Bachas
Grand Galibier seen from Bachas
Grand Galibier seen from Bachas
Col de l'Eychauda
Col de l'Eychauda

From the chairlift, we followed the GR54 trail south to Col l’Eychauda (2431 m). Most of the trail followed a wide dirt track which made the itinerary less interesting although the views were spectacular. Before Col l’Eychauda we had our goal on our left-hand side. The western flank of la Cucumelle was precipitous , and continued to the north as a ridge named Rocher du Grand Pre.


We ascended to Col de la Cucumelle. The steep trail to the summit was entirely visible on the almost white southern flank. Nearing the summit, the incline became steeper and steeper but the grip of our hiking shoes held on the slate rock surface. Not recommended in bad weather!


The narrow summit was marked with a wooden cross. Not surprisingly, the panorama was 360° with the nearest Monêtier glaciers in the west.


La Cucumelle southwestern flank
La Cucumelle southwestern flank
Serre Chevalier viewed from la Cucumelle
Serre Chevalier viewed from la Cucumelle
Col de la Cucumelle seen from summit
Col de la Cucumelle seen from summit
View west from la Cucumelle
View west from la Cucumelle

We took the same trail back the starting point, minding every step below the summit. Another hiker first descended along the  grassy albeit steep eastern flank to a trail below.


Climb: 530 m  
Distance: 7 km
Duration: 3h 30
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre

La Cucumelle hike track


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Majorca topping for fish fillets


Majorca topping for fish fillets


The following topping for fish is loosely based on a lunch we recently had in Majorca, the Balearic Islands. This topping will jazz up any limp and a bit tasteless white fish such as blue ling or haddock.

In the photo, the blue ling fillets are served with roasted yellow squash, black rice, and chopped basil.

2 servings

4 tbsp. crushed almonds or grilled hazelnut powder

1 clove garlic, pressed 

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

8 tinned anchovy fillets

2 tbsp. olive oil


Soak the anchovy fillets in water for about 10 minutes to remove some of the salt. Remove from water and crush into a paste in a bowl. Add all the other ingredients and mix into a nice paste.


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


Place the fish fillets in an oven-proof dish coated with some olive oil. Divide the topping on the fillets and roast for 10 minutes. 


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Exploring Crête de Serre Chevalier

 

Crete de Serre Chevalier


We decided to explore the trails west of Serre Chevalier (2491 m), and based on last years’ experience we took advantage of the Casse du Boeuf chairlift from Villeneuve (1400 m) as we planned to do a shorter hike at a higher altitude.

The high starting point offers numerous itineraries. We had previously hiked to Serre Chevalier summit then down to the valley.

Casse du Boeuf chairlift
Casse du Boeuf chairlift
Crete de Peyrolle
Crete de Peyrolle
Serre Chevalier western flank
Serre Chevalier western flank
Scenery west of Serre Chevalier
Scenery west of Serre Chevalier

From the chairlift (2270 m), we climbed up to a crossroads at the foot of the northern flank of Serre Chevalier where took a good trail which ran along the western flank to Col de Serre Chevalier (2381 m). Forking right (west), we continued along the southern flank of Crête de Serre Chevalier with great views to the south/southwest as well as to the east, over the Durance River Valley. This area was outside of the ski runs and lifts and therefore very attractive. We climbed a bit further to Col de la Pisse (2501 m) where  some of the Ecrins glaciers could be admired in the northwest.


We used the same trail back to the starting point.


Nearing Col de Serre Chevalier
Nearing Col de Serre Chevalier
View south Col de Serre Chevalier
View south Col de Serre Chevalier
View northwest Col de Serre Chevalier
View northwest Col de Serre Chevalier
Near Col de la Pisse
Near Col de la Pisse
Col de la Pisse 2501m
Col de la Pisse 2501m

Climb: 300 m
Distance: 6,2 km
Duration: 2h 30
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre

Crete de Serre Chevalier track


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Chicken, green purée, and red wine sauce

 

Chicken green purée red wine sauce


The following chicken recipe is perfect in autumn when the days get darker and cooler and we crave warmer dishes. But it is just as suitable on a miserable and rainy spring day.

Roasting the chicken legs in oven with red wine and chicken stock gives tender and tasty chicken as well as a nice reduced red wine sauce. A light Bourgogne red or Chianti would go well with this recipe.

2 servings

2 free-range chicken legs

1 free-range chicken breast

2 medium potatoes

½ head of broccoli

Olive oil

150 ml red wine

150 ml chicken stock

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

A pinch of salt

Fresh herbs to decorate


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


Place the chicken legs in an ovenproof dish. Spread 2 tbsp. olive oil on the legs. Pour the red wine and chicken stock in the dish and roast for 45 minutes.


Meanwhile cook the chicken breast in a small frying pan and make the green purée.


Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a small non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Cut the chicken breast in halves lengthwise. Cook in the frying pan for 20 minutes turning once. Cover and set aside.


Peel the potatoes and cut them into pieces. Place in slightly larger saucepan and add water to cover the potatoes. Add the shallot and garlic and cook for about 15 minutes until the potatoes are soft. Drain, cover and set aside.


Cut ½ broccoli head into smaller pieces. Place in a saucepan with some water and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook for 5 minutes until soft. Transfer the broccoli into the potato saucepan reserving some of the cooking water. Add 1 tbsp. olive oil and a little cooking water and mix into a purée with a handheld mixer. If needed, add more water into a nice consistence.


For the presentation: Divide the reduced wine sauce from the ovenproof dish on the plates. Place the chicken legs and breast halves on the sauce. Arrange the green purée in the middle of the chicken pieces and decorate with chopped herbs. 


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