With the gondola, we reached almost 1700 m, but with the clear skies the temperature was nevertheless soaring. Our original plan was to ascend to the French side of the border and proceed along the trail to Col de la Perle and even beyond. Because this summer’s record heatwave, we had to modify both the length and climb of the hike.

We climbed along a well-marked trail, first along ski runs then a good path to Lake Terrasole, a popular spot for picnic etc. We ascended a bit more, heading southwest outside of the ski runs before reaching a mountain restaurant called Capanna Niculin, closed for summer.

The next crossroads was above us. It was also the upper station of a chair lift running from Limone 1400. The adjacent restaurant Baita 2000 was open. The Upper Salt Road (Alta Via del Sale) ran here, and the day was busy. We were able to hike a bit along a path before joining the dusty dirt track shared by 4X4s, motorcycles, MTBs and hikers. We reached the Campanin Pass (2142 m), still on the Italian side. We exited the dirt road, and hiked southwest to the nearby border where we ascended to Cime du Bec Roux (2214 m) with a cross overlooking Limone. 

We decided to make this our turning point, and returned to the Bottero Gondola, taking some shortcuts along the ski runs.

After the devastating storm Alex in October 2020, both the road and rail connections were  cut, and the road tunnel remains closed. Now it is possible to reach the pass by car from Casterino on the French side using a narrow unpaved road best suitable for 4X4s. All the others driving from Alpes Maritimes need to circle via Col de la Lombarde  above Isola2000 (as we did) or take the longer coastal route via Imperia and Cuneo to reach Limone.

Having Limone as our base, we drove up along a paved road to Col de Tende, Passo della Tenda (1871 m). It was a busy day, and the dirt track to Casterino was used by numerous motorists including jeep safari groups. We parked at the col proper a few 100 m past Chalet le Marmotte.

Having hiked to the east from the col some years ago, we now wanted to explore the itinerary to the west as far as to Fort de Giaure (2254 m).

From the col (signpost #340 on French maps), we climbed straight to Fort Pernante (2119 m) along a narrow trail apparently marked for mountain bikers as well. Fort de la Marguerie was well below us, next to the Casterino dirt road. All the fortresses are today on the French side of the border. We descended a bit, and hiked along the southern flank of Cime de Salante.

Our goal was visible in front of us, its northern flank very steep and rocky. Maps advise to use the wide zigzagging old military trail. However, we came to a sign showing “itineraire”. The original trail was blocked by a rock slide higher up. We followed the instructions, and had to negotiate some rocky stretches here as well before reaching a small lake, now dry. We turned southeast and merged with the main trail above the rock slide. Some parts before the fortress were narrow and exposed. At one point, a wire rope was installed.

From the fortress, the panorama was excellent to both countries. From signpost #380 west of the fort, one trail descended down to Casterino while the other one ascended up to the nearby Roche de l’Abysse (2755 m).

On the way back, we first used the same trail then a smooth quasi horizontal trail circling north of Cime de Salante then north of Fort Pernante before descending back to our starting point.