Col des Ayes from Brunissard

Col des Ayes northwest view


 We had previously done a loop hike from Brunissard via Col de Néal where the first stretch of the hike ran along the famous GR5 long distance trail.

We now wanted to explore the GR5 as far as to Col de Ayes (2477 m). Starting from Brunissard, the first less interesting part followed the road to the vast camping. It then climbed to Le Pré Premier and further along a dusty dirt road which went to the Chalets of Claypeto. Just before the chalets, the GR5 forked right towards Col des Ayes, and we were finally surrounded by a beautiful high alpine landscape. The first part was moderately steep, then levelled off a bit before a final ascent to the mountain pass.

Leaving Brunissard
Leaving Brunissard
Above l'Eychaillon
Above l'Eychaillon
Chalets de Clapeyto in background
Chalets de Clapeyto in background

From the col, we had great views towards the mountain massifs northwest of Briançon and to the massifs bordering Italy in the Queyras Regional Park in the southeast. The col was well frequented and there appeared to be trekkers on a several day tour with heavy gear.

If you want to avoid the first part of the itinerary it is always possible to drive up the parking near the camping ground.

It was another heatwave day in the region, and very warm at almost 2500 m altitude where we took our pause before returning back to Brunissard.


Towards Col des Ayes
Towards Col des Ayes
Last stretch to Col des Ayes
Last stretch to Col des Ayes
Return trail Mont Viso in horizon
Return trail Mont Viso in horizon
Pic du Cros Massif above Arvieux
Pic du Cros Massif above Arvieux

Climb: 700 m
Distance: 10,7 km
Duration: 4h20
Map: 3537 ET Guillestre, Vars, Risoul PNR du Queyras

Col des Ayes hike track


Lamb chops à la Thierry Marx

 

Lamb chops à la Thierry Marx


Thierry Marx is a Michelin star French chef who also directs cookery schools . He is now flexitarian and focused on the responsibility that catering sector has for the society and environment.

This recipe is loosely based on the interview on the French morning TV 1 Bonjour. In fact they only showed the presentation of the dish in his restaurant kitchen but the message was clear: cook from quality ingredients, cook from scratch and do not waste.

2 servings

4 local lamb chops

4 large slices of a round green courgette

4 thick slices of dark tomatoes

Olive oil

100 ml quick-cooking green lentils

Chopped mint leaves to decorate

For the red wine sauce:

1 tbsp olive oil

1 small shallot, minced

1 small clove of garlic, minced

150 ml red wine

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. tomato purée


Start by cooking the green lentils according to the advice on the package. When done, cover and set aside until needed.


In a frying pan, warm olive oil over medium heat and fry the courgette slices on both sides until golden brown and soft.


In another frying pan, warm 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat and sauté the tomato slices a few minutes on both sides.


In a small saucepan, sauté the shallot and garlic in 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat 5-10 minutes. Add the red wine, herbs, and black pepper. Raise the temperature and cook until reduced by about half. Whisk in the tomato purée, cover and set aside.


Warm a grill pan over medium-high heat. Coat the lamb chops with some olive oil and fry about 3 minutes on both sides depending on the thickness.


For the presentation: arrange the vegetables in layers in the middle of the plates. Sprinkle the lentils around the vegetables and drizzle with the red wine sauce. Place the lamb chops on top of the vegetables and sprinkle with chopped mint.


Col de Malaure (Queyras)

 

Final push to Col de Malaure

In the Queyras Regional Park, we have previously explored some trails to mountain passes bordering Italy. From Valpréveyre above Abriés, we had earlier climbed to Col d’Urine.

Using Valpréveyre as a starting point, we now wanted to climb to Col de Malaure (2536 m) north of the abovementioned Col d’Urine and in a different valley.

Leaving Valpréyvere
Leaving Valpréyvere
Following Torrent du Bouchet
Following Torrent du Bouchet
Crossing Malaure Torrent
Crossing Malaure Torrent
Sheep flock by the trail
Sheep flock by the trail

Some sources say that Hannibal may have used the Malaure Pass when crossing the Alps. True or tale, the Italian side viewed from the col was very steep and rocky so hard to believe that elephants could negotiate this terrain!

We started from the parking in Valpréveyre, crossed the Bouchet Torrent and then headed east following the torrent in the woods. A bit higher, we crossed a stream again. The incline became steeper, and we came to a crossroads at 2230 m where the left-hand trail went to Col de Bouchet and Col de Valpréveyre. We forked right as planned. After climbing 300 m and 1.1 km including some steep stretches, we reached the narrow col where an Italian signpost with several destinations was erected. A narrow and steep trail descended on the Italian side. The Italian lowlands were not far, and typical fog and clouds (nebbia) were clinging to the relief.

We met nobody on the latter part of the trail. Many walkers preferred to enjoy the sunny and warm weather by the stream. Some went up to the Bouchet Pass with a small refuge on the Italian side.


Above tree line to Malaure
Above tree line to Malaure
Viewing Bric Bouchet
Viewing Bric Bouchet
Col de Malaure 30 min Away
Col de Malaure 30 min Away
Col de Malaure
Col de Malaure
Initial descent Col de Malaure
Initial descent Col de Malaure

Climb: 720 m
Distance: 9,6 km
Duration: 4h 15
Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran Aiguilles PNR Du Queyras


Col de Malaure hike track


Burrata Gazpacho

 

Burrata gazpacho


This recipe is a tasty gazpacho variation which is easily made when the peaches and tomatoes are in season. Served with some good country bread it makes a nice light lunch during the heatwave.

2 servings

300 ml tasty gazpacho such as the Spanish Alvalle

4 tbsp. fromage blanc 0%fat or thick Greek yoghurt

2 mini burratas or 1 regular burrata, halved

2 peaches

Olive oil

8 black olives

1 oval tomato, cut into small pieces

Chopped basil leaves

Freshly ground black pepper


Cut the peaches into sections and grill them in a pan with some olive oil.


Whisk the fromage blanc into the gazpacho and divide into two bowls.


Divide the peaches into the bowls. Add the burrata, tomato, olives, and basil. Sprinkle with a little olive oil and grind over some black pepper. Serve at once.


Col du Tronchet loop from Brunissard (Arvieux)

Col du Tronchet


 We found out that the Tronchet Mountain Pass (2347 m) above Arvieux could be reached easily by doing a loop hike from the village of Brunissard.

We located a signpost at 1770 m elevation where the GR58 trail crossed D902 road. We headed east first along a country road before reaching Ravin du Partus where the GR58 ascended in a forest. 

Brunissard
Brunissard
View north of Brunissard
View north of Brunissard
Near Ravin du Partus
Near Ravin du Partus
GR58 above Brunissard
GR58 above Brunissard

Only at about 2100 m, the forest gave gradually way to verdant alpine meadows where flowers were still blossoming in late July. We passed a trail on our right-hand side to La Chalp (our return itinerary) then another path on our left-hand side leading to the Souliers Lake before reaching the col. We could enjoy our break south of the col on the beginning of the Glaisette ridge.


After descending to the abovementioned crossroads, we left the GR trail and continued along a very nice yellow-marked forest trail. Near Torrent du Grimaud we forked right towards Brunissard. Most of the trail still ran in a forest, and the trail was soft, easy on your feet.


We passed Les Aiguillettes, came to a dirt road and soon back to the GR58 trail, closing the loop just before Brunissard.



GR58 nearing Col du Tronchet
GR58 nearing Col du Tronchet
Alpine meadows before Col du Tronchet
Alpine meadows before Col du Tronchet
View east of Col du Tronchet
View east of Col du Tronchet
Descending back to Brunissard
Descending back to Brunissard

Climb: 610 m
Distance: 7,8 km
Duration: 3h 50
Map: 3537 ET Guillestre Vars, Risoul PNR du Queyras


Col du Tronchet loop track


Salad with fried peaches, tomatoes and Parma ham

 

Salad with fried peaches tomatoes and Parma ham


Sometimes the peach season is late but you are tempted to buy half-ripe peaches anyway hoping that they soften in your kitchen. Well, they don’t but frying them in olive oil is a good technique to soften them. 

The sweet flavour of peaches goes very well with the acidic taste of tomatoes and the saltiness of Parma ham. 

Serve the salad with some good country bread for a balanced light lunch. 

2 servings

2 peaches

2 tbsp. olive oil

8-10 slices of Parma ham

1 large green tomato

About 6 red cherry tomatoes

About 6 yellow cherry tomatoes

2 tbsp. vinaigrette

2 tbsp black olives

Basil leaves to decorate


Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil over medium-high heat in a frying pan. Remove the stones from the peaches and cut them into quarters. Fry them, stirring occasionally, until nicely coloured and soft.


Cut the green tomato into sections and halve the cherry tomatoes. Place the tomatoes, peaches, and black olive into a bowl. Add the vinaigrette and mix. Divide the mixture on 2 plates and fold in the Parma ham. Scatter with basil leaves.


Col de Péas (GR58) from les Fonts (Cervières)

Col de Péas


For day hikes, the numerous mountain passes in the French Alps offer good and safe options. Many long distance (GR) trails cross the cols.

We chose to drive to Les Fonts de Cervières (2040 m) at the end of the  D89T road. We have previously used this popular starting point for our hikes. The GR 58 runs via the hamlet.

Les Fonts
Les Fonts
Start of GR58 Les Fonts
Start of GR58 Les Fonts
GR58 along Cerveyrette Torrent
GR58 along Cerveyrette Torrent
Pic de Rochebrune
Pic de Rochebrune
Col de Péas 15min away
Col de Péas 15min away
Almost at Col de Péas
Almost at Col de Péas
Rocky steep stretch of GR58
Rocky steep stretch of GR58
Back to Les Fonts
Back to Les Fonts

Our goal was Col de Péas (2629 m), south of Les Fonts. It was a straightforward itinerary along the GR58 with white/red markings. After having crossed a wooden bridge in Les Fonts, we reached the GR58 and headed south. With such a high starting point, we soon reached a high alpine environment where Pic de Rochebrune (3320 m) dominated the landscape on our right-hand side.


We reached an intersection where a trail forked right to Lac des Cordes. We continued straight and came to a steeper section of the trail where some surefootedness was required when climbing, and especially during the descent. Some patches of snow were still present by the trail in late July near the col.

The mountain pass comprised wide alpine meadows notably on its southern side. It was a great stop for our picnic. Several other hikers were recuperating there as well.


We used the same trail back to our starting point.


Climb: 650 m
Distance: 8,3 km
Duration:  4 h
Map: Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre 3536 OT

Col de Péas track


Courgettes and red onions with ricotta

 

Courgettes and red onions with ricotta


Sometimes in the South of France The spring lingers before suddenly turning into full summer. Tomatoes and paprikas are still not in season but we have plenty of courgettes. 

The following recipe makes a nice and flavourful lunch and does not require much effort. Serve it with some good country bread and a green side salad for a balanced meal.

The culinary roots in Nice are almost half Italian so Italian products are widely available in our shops. I have used the sweet and sour Toscoro Crema con aceto balsamico di Modena as a flavouring. If you don’t find it in your shops you can use balsamic vinegar di Modena and add a bit of sugar.

2 servings

2 regular long courgettes or 4 small

4 tbsp. olive oil

1 red onion, peeled and finely sliced

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tbsp. Toscoro Crema con aceto balsamico di Modena

½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli powder

250 g ricotta

Fresh basil leaves to decorate


Warm 3 tbsp. olive oil in a sauté pan over medium- high heat. Wash and slice the courgettes. Fry them for 4- 5 minutes on both sides until golden brown. Then remove with a slotted spoon on to a plate.


In the same pan, fry the red onion for about 10 minutes. Remove the heat to medium- low and add the garlic. Keep on stirring and frying until the onion is soft.


Add the courgette slices back to the pan. Season with Toscoro Crema and Piment d’ Espelette and stir.


Divide the courgettes and onion on the plates. Divide the ricotta in the middle of the plates and sprinkle with the remaining olive oil. Scatter with basil leaves and serve.


St-Paul-sur-Ubaye to Fouillouse along GR56

 

Fouillouse church

We wanted to explore the GR6/56 trail between the two villages. St-Paul sur Ubaye (1430 m) is the gateway to the upper Ubaye River Valley. Fouillouse (about 1900 m) is a popular starting point for hikes in the Chambeyron region. In fact, the highest peaks of the French southern alps (excluding the Ecrins Massif) are located here.

Near St-Paul sur Ubaye
Near St-Paul sur Ubaye
Bridge over Ubaye River
Bridge over Ubaye River
GR56 near Ubaye Valley
GR56 near Ubaye Valley
Larch woods above Ubaye Valley
Larch woods above Ubaye Valley

We followed the D25 road a bit, then forked right and followed the Ubaye River to the l’Estrech bridge, crossed the river and continued on the other side about 1,2 km. We reached a crossroads where we forked right and started to ascend in the woods. The markings were white/yellow for the GR trail all the way. After about 1800 m elev. the trail levelled out, and we reached a large alpine meadow. The village of Fouillouse was visible on the other side of the Fouillouse River, the peculiar relief of Brec de Chambeyron (3389 m) a bit further away. But the scenery across the Ubaye River was impressive as well, with several 3000+ peaks. In 1878, two alpinists from Fouillouse managed to climb to the summit of Brec de Chambeyron. But the next year, the famous alpinist Coolidge arrived in Ubaye and in a week conquered six 3000+ summits!


View northwest from GR56
View northwest from GR56
Fouillouse in sight
Fouillouse in sight
Footbridge to Fouillouse
Footbridge to Fouillouse

To reach the village, we descended a bit to a wood bridge, and passed the village church. There were a few places serving simple meals, and there seemed to be quite a few visitors given that it was early in the season. In St Paul sur Ubaye, everything was closed. We stopped at the first cafe/restaurant/grocery store for an omelette before hiking back.


Climb: 550 m

Duration: 4h 40

Distance: 12,7 km


Map: 3538 ET Aiguille de Chambeyron


St-Paul Fouillouse track