Exploring Saint-Paul de Vence

 

St-Paul de Vence

Situated only 6 km from the coast as the crow flies, the mythic hilltop village of Saint-Paul de Vence has become increasingly popular. After many years, we visited the medieval village on a beautiful weekday in April. In spite of many visitors, the atmosphere was convivial. There were also many more art galleries and small quality shops than before. You don’t find any tourist trinket here, but small boutiques selling local perfumes, quality jewellery, and handcrafted olive wood works. 

With this short blog post, we just wanted to share some springtime images of the village. For more detailed info, check here  

Café de la Place
Café de la Place
St-Paul de Vence entrance
St-Paul de Vence entrance
Art shop in St-Paul de Vence
Art shop in St-Paul de Vence
St-Paul de Vence main street
St-Paul de Vence main street

We parked in front of the nearby Fondation Maeght art museum and walked the short distance to the village. The Café de la Place at Place Charles de Gaulle was a perfect stop for a mid-morning coffee. From the square, we took the main pedestrian street which led us directly to the southern tip of the medieval wall (less than 500 m from the square). From here, we had views to the coast and northeast, as far as the to the snow-capped Mercantour peaks. Most of the businesses were located on the main street named rue Grande.


We continued the stroll by exploring some of the side streets, then opted for an informal lunch on a panoramic terrasse.


Art displayed in St-Paul de Vence
Art displayed in St-Paul de Vence
Eastern wall of St-Paul de Vence
Eastern wall of St-Paul de Vence
Side street in St-Paul de Vence
Side street in St-Paul de Vence
View northwest from St-Paul de Vence
View northwest from St-Paul de Vence

Mediterranean Potato Gratin

Mediterranean potato gratin

 

Potatoes are much more frequently used in the traditional Mediterranean Diet than we might expect. In that region, potato gratins are made with olive oil, chicken stock, and some vegetables instead of butter, cream, and cheese in the traditional gratin Dauphinois

The following recipe is inspired by a lunch that we recently had in a Mediterranean restaurant in the Canary Islands. Black olives and cherry tomatoes in the potato gratin went very well with fresh white fish fillets like seabass, cod or halibut.

2 servings

2- 3 firm potatoes, pref. organic

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 tbsp. black pitted olives, sliced

About 10 cherry tomatoes, halved

100 ml chicken stock

½ tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 180° C, roast. Bring the chicken stock to simmering in a small saucepan.


Wash and thinly slice the potatoes. Place the potatoes, garlic, olives, and cherry tomatoes in a bowl with the olive oil and toss until well coated. Add the black pepper and Provençal herbs and mix.


Coat two individual gratin dishes with some olive oil and divide the vegetable mixture in them. Pour the chicken stock over the vegetables. Cover with aluminium foil and bake for 40 minutes.


Raise the temperature to 200° C roast and remove the foil. Continue roasting for about 15 minutes until the potatoes are nicely browned on top.


Petite Afrique Hike

 

Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat


The following short semi-urban loop above Beaulieu-sur-Mer offers great views of the town as well as the nearby Saint Jean Cap Ferrat. Situated in one of the most temperate regions of France, and protected by northern winds, the south-facing mountain flank above Beaulieu-sur-Mer has a microclimate of its own.

Rue du Marché
Rue du Marché
Place Charles de Gaulle
Place Charles de Gaulle
Above the old cemetery
Above the old cemetery
Below Bd Eduard VII
Below Bd Eduard VII

Starting from the waterfront, we headed to Place Charles de Gaulle via rue Gallieni and rue du Marché. From the square, we started to ascend along Chemin des Myrtes with some traffic and no pavements. At a sharp bend, we continued straight towards the old cemetery. This is where the paved street ended and we continued along a partly paved path which followed a dry stream bed. Here we saw the first yellow signs marking the itinerary.


We ascended to Boulevard Eduard VII and forked right, following it about 300 m to the bus stop Les Trois Frères where we exited the street, and climbed along stairs to Chemin de Sophie. The markings were now better. We passed several properties, and soon continued along a good trail surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation, now in the Petite Afrique neighbourhood.


Above Beaulieu-sur-Mer
Above Beaulieu-sur-Mer
In Petite Afrique
In Petite Afrique
Trail to signpost #666
Trail to signpost #666
Signpost #666 at trail crossroads
Signpost #666 at trail crossroads
Descent back to Beaulieu
Descent back to Beaulieu
L'Escourcha stairs Beaulieu
L'Escourcha stairs Beaulieu
Villas above Beaulieu
Villas above Beaulieu


We passed the fallen signpost #665 and climbed to a crossroads of four paths (the highest point of the loop) and signpost #666. A steep optional path continued up to Chapelle St-Grat. We forked right, and descended rapidly back to Bd Eduard VII, and followed it about 400 m to l’Escourchia (pedestrian shortcut; stairs) then continued via Ruelle des Mandarines and Bd Eugène Gauthier to the port.


Duration: 2 h including short stops

Distance: 4 km

Climb: 190 m

Map: 3742 OT Nice-Menton Cote d’Azur


Petite Afrique hike track



Tagliatelle with broccoli and pistachio pesto

Tagliatelle with broccoli and pistachio pesto

 

Home-made pasta sauces made from scratch will always have more quality vegetables and antioxidants than a jar of ready-made pasta sauce. Of course, it is a question of time. Preparing this pasta sauce will take about 20 minutes, plus the time needed for shopping the vegetables. Opening a jar of ready-made pasta sauce and reheating it only takes a few minutes.

Recently, a Swiss preventive medicine clinic advised 30 different herbs, vegetables, and fruit a week to stay as young as possible for as long as possible. This pasta sauce helps towards that goal.

2 servings

Whole wheat tagliatelle or spaghetti for 2

1 small broccoli head, pref. organic

A handful of peeled and unsalted pistachios

1 clove garlic, minced

A handful of grated parmesan

Olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

For the presentation:

4 tbsp. of ricotta

About 1/3 handful of pistachios, coarsely chopped

Fresh organic herbs

Olive oil


In a large saucepan, bring water to a boil. Cut the broccoli into florets and wash in a colander. Cook the broccoli in boiling water for 1- 2 minutes, drain and place back in the saucepan. Add the pistachios, minced garlic, and parmesan and mix into a paste with a hand-held mixer. Add black pepper and some olive oil and continue mixing into a nice creamy consistence. Set aside.


In a mortar with pestle, coarsely chop about 1/3 handful of pistachios. Set aside.


Wash some fresh organic herbs, dry and chop . Set aside.


Cook the tagliatelle al dente according to the advice on the package. Save a cup of cooking water. Drain the tagliatelle and place back in the casserole. Add the broccoli and pistachio pesto and stir until the pasta is nicely coated with the pesto. Add some pasta cooking water and warm the saucepan for 1- 2 minutes, stirring.


Divide the tagliatelle on the plates or in the bowls. Place the ricotta among the pasta and sprinkle over the pistachios and herbs. Pour over some olive oil and serve. 


Plan des Noves to Vescagne Footbridge

 

Descent to Plan des Noves


The following hike features a pleasant walk in Plan des Noves above Vence along the GR51 trail.

The Plan des Noves parking by the M2 road is a natural starting point for walks near Col de Vence as you can choose many directions and the GR51 trail crosses the road here.

Departing Plan des Noves parking
Departing Plan des Noves parking
GR51 crossroads Plan des Noves
GR51 Crossroads Plan des Noves
Heading north on GR51
Heading north on GR51
Evergreen woods by the GR51
Evergreen woods by the GR51

We headed east descending about 100 m to signpost #133 at the western part of the plateau. We forked sharply left (north) along GR51, and walked past some ancient agricultural areas. The surrounding scenery was dominated by Mouton d’Anou (1079 m) and Colle Menon (1029 m). As Plan des Noves is surrounded by about 800 m peaks in all directions, the coast remained invisible.


Mouton d'Anou
Mouton d'Anou
Cagnes River Valley
Cagnes River Valley
Vescagne footbridge
Vescagne footbridge
La Cagne riverbed almost dry
La Cagne riverbed almost dry

The GR51 at this point was a wide track surrounded in places by holm oaks, and other evergreen trees. We climbed a bit before the trail turned west above the Cagnes River Valley, descending rapidly to the wooden footbridge, Pont du Vescagne (620 m). It had rained very little in the winter, and only a small amount of water streamed towards the sea even in early March. Some riverbeds have been reported completely dry in the Var Department. The sources of the Cagnes River are near Coursegoules, about 5 km uphill and northwest as the crow flies.


We used the same trail back to our starting point.


Distance: 10 km


Climb: 390 m




Duration: 3h 20 active


Map: “Cannes-Grasse” Côte d’Azur 3643ET




Vescagne bridge hike track


Chef's salad revisited

 

Chef's salad revisited


More than 40 years ago when we visited the US Virgin Islands, chef’s salad was very popular over there. It was served in a bowl and made from iceberg salad, yellow cheese, ham, and hard-boiled eggs, and topped with a generous amount of blue cheese dressing.

The choice of ingredients for the following Mediterranean twist is totally different and reflects our increased knowledge of antioxidant and fibre-rich foods and heart healthy fats.

Make this salad in winter when the Mediterranean oranges and avocados are at their best.

2 servings

2 handfuls of organic mesclun, baby salad leaves

2 handfuls of cooked white beans

1 Mediterranean avocado

1 organic Mediterranean orange

12 organic local cherry tomatoes

8 black olives, pitted and sliced

2 soft-cooked eggs

2 tbsp. almond flakes

A few organic basil leaves

Vinaigrette from olive oil and red wine vinegar


Divide the mesclun on two large plates. Peel and slice the orange and avocado and divide on the plates. Add the white beans, halved cherry tomatoes, and black olives and place an egg in the middle of the plates.


Drizzle with a little of vinaigrette and top with almond flakes and chopped basil leaves. Serve with some rye bread.


Caussols to Haut Montet

 

Haut Montet summit


Today’s hike features an alternative itinerary to Haut Montet (1335 m) above Grasse. We have hiked there many times from the parking at about 1100 asl (Chemin des Claps) west of Gourdon. It is the shortest option, and very popular because of easy access. 

Caussols Village
Caussols Village
GR4 from Caussols
GR4 from Caussols
GR4 south of Caussols
GR4 south of Caussols
Ascent to Col du Clapier
Ascent to Col du Clapier

This time we wanted to explore the itinerary from the village of Caussols (1100 m) by the D12 road. We started along the GR 4 long distance trail which ran through the village. We followed the D12 road a few hundred meters to the west to signpost #31 where we forked left (south), following an excellent trail. Some stretches followed dirt or paved roads. The first 2,5 km or so were almost flat. We passed signpost #32, still heading south on the Caussols Plateau. About one km after #32 we started to climb, now heading southeast, to Col du Clapier (1257 m); signpost #35. There were snowy and icy patches here and there.


Near Col du Clapier
Near Col du Clapier
Trail to Haut Montet from west
Trail to Haut Montet from west
Smog above the Riviera
Smog above the Riviera
View to west from Haut Montet
View to west from Haut Montet

The GR 4 trail continued south towards Grasse. We forked left towards Haut Montet, first passing a mountain top named le Montet (1311 m). The trail undulated in mostly open ground before merging with a dirt track about one km before Haut Montet. The civil aviation radar on the summit can be seen from many places on the coast. 


The winter day was cloudless, but haze and smog below us prevented any good views down to the coast whereas the Southern Alpine chain of peaks was well visible in the north.


We returned back to Caussols using the same trail.


Distance: 14,2 km

Climb: 420 m

Duration: 4h 20

Map: Haute Siagne 3543 ET



Trail Caussols Haut Montet
Trail Caussols Haut Montet


Tocco Genovese

Tocco Genovese
Tocco Genovese

The traditional cooking in Nice has close ties with the cuisine in neighbouring Liguria and Piedmont on the Italian side. This explains the similarities between daube de boeuf, the meat stew on the French Riviera, and Tocco, the Genovese meat dish. Both are cooked for ages in large quantities and are appropriate for large informal dinner parties.

In the Italian style, the meat- flavoured tomato sauce of Tocco is served with pasta, traditionally ravioli. The tender meat is served as a second course with the vegetables.

Like all traditional recipes, Tocco exists in many variations. In the interesting cookery book, Flavours of the Riviera by Colman Andrews, Tocco is made from boneless veal.

I have modernized the Tocco recipes by choosing a lean and tender pork fillet, filet mignon de porc. This will considerably reduce the cooking time needed.

Ravioli with tocco sauce
Ravioli with tocco sauce


2 servings

300 g piece of pork fillet, filet mignon de porc

3 chopped tomatoes or 200 ml Italian passata

200 ml chicken stock

A handful of fresh mushrooms, chopped

1-2 carrots, thinly sliced

½ onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 stalk of celery, sliced

2 tbsp. olive oil

½ glass red wine

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs


Warm the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy casserole, cocotte. Brown the meat on both sides until golden. Add the carrot, mushrooms, celery, onion, and garlic and sauté for 5- 10 minutes. Pour in the wine. When it has evaporated, add the tomatoes /passata and chicken stock.


Cover and simmer on a low heat for about 1 hour until the meat is cooked and the vegetables are tender.


Cook the ravioli which takes about 3 minutes. Place the pork fillet on a cutting board and cover with tin foil. Take the tomato sauce from the cocotte and sprinkle over the drained ravioli which are first sprinkled with some parmesan. This is served as the first course. Leave the vegetables in the casserole and cover to keep them warm.


For the second course, slice the pork fillet and serve it with the vegetables from the casserole.


Sommet de Calern hike

 

Sommet de Calern
Sommet de Calern


Sommet de Calern (1458 m) overlooks the small village Caussols (1100 m). Only 10 km north of Grasse as the crow flies, the summit is located in the westernmost part of the Plateau de Calern. The CERGA observatory established in 1974 is about 3 km to the east of the summit.

Sommet de Calern southern flank
Sommet de Calern southern flank
Starting from Caussols
Starting from Caussols
GR4 near Caussols
GR4 near Caussols
Sinkhole by the trail
Sinkhole by the trail

The GR4 trail runs through Caussols. Starting from the village (signpost #30), we headed north first along a paved road, then along a good and recently maintained trail. We passed several fenced pasture areas which all were empty. We came under the steep southern ridge and headed northeast. The region consists mostly of limestone and we walked past some peculiar rock formations and sinkholes, avens.


We came to signpost #50 where the GR4 continued northeast to Cipières, and another trail straight east to the nearby observatory. We forked left (west), and ascended in open terrain towards the summit along a yellow-marked trail. There were many parallel paths and tracks.  


GR4 near signpost50
GR4 near signpost50
Rock formations Calern
Rock formations Calern
Trail to Sommet de Calern
Trail to Sommet de Calern
Vast Plateau de Calern
Vast Plateau de Calern
Plateau de Caussols
Plateau de Caussols

The summit (highest in Calern) was marked with a large cairn. We could see parts of Nice, the airport as well as the coast to the west, well beyond the St Tropez peninsula.


We took the same trail back to Caussols. It is possible to make a detour to the observatory or even to Colle de Rougiès



Climb: 390 m

Distance: 8.8 km

Duration: 3 h

Map: 3543 ET Haute Siagne


Sommet de Calern hike track
Sommet de Calern hike track