Authion: Cime de Tuor hike

 

Cime de Tuor in sight


North of  Authion, several summits lie next to the GR52  trail soon after the Pointe des trois Communes and signpost # 410. 

We wanted to explore Cime de Tuor (2151 m,) well visible from Authion and with its steep southern flank quite impressive despite the elevation just 100 m or so more than that of Authion.


Cabane de Tueis
Cabane de Tueis
GR52 from Cabane de Tueis
GR52 from Cabane de Tueis
Cime du Diable seen from Authion
Cime du Diable seen from Authion
Pointe des Trois Communes
Pointe des Trois Communes

From Cabane de Tueis parking (1889 m), we headed east following GR52 and ascended along a panoramic ridge. We passed some ruined barracks and reached signpost #410 next to Pointe des trois Communes. We descended to Baisse de St-Véran (1836 m) and climbed along the eastern flank of Cime de Tuor to Col de Raus. Here we left the GR52.

 Maps indicate a path to the summit but in reality it was almost ingrown and invisible. A bit higher, we passed remnants of old bunkers. We settled for the northern  fore summit where we had our picnic before returning to Col de Raus then back to our starting point.


Cime de Tuor northern flank
Cime de Tuor northern flank
View east from Cime de Tuor
View east from Cime de Tuor
Steep northern flank Cime de Tuor
Steep northern flank Cime de Tuor
Cime de Tuor fore summit
Cime de Tuor fore summit
GR52 south of Col de Raus
GR52 south of Col de Raus

This itinerary which ran entirely above the tree line, offered panorama views all the way. The southernmost 2500 m+ peaks (Such as Cime du Diable, Mont Capelet Superieur) were just in front of us in the north. Choose a day with good visibility when hiking in this region.


Climb: 710 m
Distance: 11,4 km
Duration: 4h 30
Map : 3741 OT Vallée de la Vésubie


Cime de Tuor hike track



Sicilian summer spaghetti

 

Sicilian summer spaghetti


I got inspiration for this Sicilian summer spaghetti, Spaghetti alla coppola, from the wonderful book On Persephone’s Island by Mary Taylor Simeti. In 1962, she went to Sicily where she married and raised two children. 

In her book, she describes the authentic Mediterranean cuisine like it was in those times in Sicily. This summer spaghetti was one of the favourite summer dishes. The tomato sauce was made from fresh tomatoes and basil and the dish was topped with dark slices of fresh aubergine. The dish will make a perfect simple lunch on a hot summer day when the tomatoes are at their best.

Serve some goat cheese or parmesan shavings over your green side salad as this vegetarian pasta dish is very low in protein.

2 servings

3 tbsp. olive oil

1 small onion, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

3-4 very ripe tasty tomatoes, chopped

½ tsp. dried Provençal herbs

1 small aubergine, thinly sliced

Freshly ground black pepper

Spaghetti for 2 servings

Lots of chopped fresh basil


Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and start frying the aubergine slices until they are soft and dark on both sides.


Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a smaller frying pan over medium heat and sauté the onion and garlic for 10 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes, Provençal herbs, and black pepper. Continue sautéing until the tomatoes have released the liquid and it has evaporated. Meanwhile cook the spaghetti and wash and chop the basil. Add some of the basil in the tomato sauce and save the rest for decoration.


Drain the cooked pasta and divide on the plates. Top with the tomato sauce and aubergine slices. Decorate with basil.


Monêtier-les-Bains: La Cucumelle hike

 

Above Col de la Cucumelle


When hiking near Serre Chevalier the day before, we observed the cone-shaped light coloured peak of la Cucumelle (2698 m) in the northwest. Studying the map, we found out that a trail goes to the summit from the Col de la Cucumelle (2501 m).

We took advantage of the le Bachas chairlift which in the summer season ran from Monêtier-les-Bains (1440 m) to 2174 m.

Near Bachas chairlift
Near Bachas chairlift
GR54 near Bachas
GR54 near Bachas
Grand Galibier seen from Bachas
Grand Galibier seen from Bachas
Col de l'Eychauda
Col de l'Eychauda

From the chairlift, we followed the GR54 trail south to Col l’Eychauda (2431 m). Most of the trail followed a wide dirt track which made the itinerary less interesting although the views were spectacular. Before Col l’Eychauda we had our goal on our left-hand side. The western flank of la Cucumelle was precipitous , and continued to the north as a ridge named Rocher du Grand Pre.


We ascended to Col de la Cucumelle. The steep trail to the summit was entirely visible on the almost white southern flank. Nearing the summit, the incline became steeper and steeper but the grip of our hiking shoes held on the slate rock surface. Not recommended in bad weather!


The narrow summit was marked with a wooden cross. Not surprisingly, the panorama was 360° with the nearest Monêtier glaciers in the west.


La Cucumelle southwestern flank
La Cucumelle southwestern flank
Serre Chevalier viewed from la Cucumelle
Serre Chevalier viewed from la Cucumelle
Col de la Cucumelle seen from summit
Col de la Cucumelle seen from summit
View west from la Cucumelle
View west from la Cucumelle

We took the same trail back the starting point, minding every step below the summit. Another hiker first descended along the  grassy albeit steep eastern flank to a trail below.


Climb: 530 m  
Distance: 7 km
Duration: 3h 30
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre

La Cucumelle hike track


Majorca topping for fish fillets


Majorca topping for fish fillets


The following topping for fish is loosely based on a lunch we recently had in Majorca, the Balearic Islands. This topping will jazz up any limp and a bit tasteless white fish such as blue ling or haddock.

In the photo, the blue ling fillets are served with roasted yellow squash, black rice, and chopped basil.

2 servings

4 tbsp. crushed almonds or grilled hazelnut powder

1 clove garlic, pressed 

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

8 tinned anchovy fillets

2 tbsp. olive oil


Soak the anchovy fillets in water for about 10 minutes to remove some of the salt. Remove from water and crush into a paste in a bowl. Add all the other ingredients and mix into a nice paste.


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


Place the fish fillets in an oven-proof dish coated with some olive oil. Divide the topping on the fillets and roast for 10 minutes. 


Exploring Crête de Serre Chevalier

 

Crete de Serre Chevalier


We decided to explore the trails west of Serre Chevalier (2491 m), and based on last years’ experience we took advantage of the Casse du Boeuf chairlift from Villeneuve (1400 m) as we planned to do a shorter hike at a higher altitude.

The high starting point offers numerous itineraries. We had previously hiked to Serre Chevalier summit then down to the valley.

Casse du Boeuf chairlift
Casse du Boeuf chairlift
Crete de Peyrolle
Crete de Peyrolle
Serre Chevalier western flank
Serre Chevalier western flank
Scenery west of Serre Chevalier
Scenery west of Serre Chevalier

From the chairlift (2270 m), we climbed up to a crossroads at the foot of the northern flank of Serre Chevalier where took a good trail which ran along the western flank to Col de Serre Chevalier (2381 m). Forking right (west), we continued along the southern flank of Crête de Serre Chevalier with great views to the south/southwest as well as to the east, over the Durance River Valley. This area was outside of the ski runs and lifts and therefore very attractive. We climbed a bit further to Col de la Pisse (2501 m) where  some of the Ecrins glaciers could be admired in the northwest.


We used the same trail back to the starting point.


Nearing Col de Serre Chevalier
Nearing Col de Serre Chevalier
View south Col de Serre Chevalier
View south Col de Serre Chevalier
View northwest Col de Serre Chevalier
View northwest Col de Serre Chevalier
Near Col de la Pisse
Near Col de la Pisse
Col de la Pisse 2501m
Col de la Pisse 2501m

Climb: 300 m
Distance: 6,2 km
Duration: 2h 30
Map: 3536 OT Briançon Serre-Chevalier Montgenèvre

Crete de Serre Chevalier track


Chicken, green purée, and red wine sauce

 

Chicken green purée red wine sauce


The following chicken recipe is perfect in autumn when the days get darker and cooler and we crave warmer dishes. But it is just as suitable on a miserable and rainy spring day.

Roasting the chicken legs in oven with red wine and chicken stock gives tender and tasty chicken as well as a nice reduced red wine sauce. A light Bourgogne red or Chianti would go well with this recipe.

2 servings

2 free-range chicken legs

1 free-range chicken breast

2 medium potatoes

½ head of broccoli

Olive oil

150 ml red wine

150 ml chicken stock

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

A pinch of salt

Fresh herbs to decorate


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


Place the chicken legs in an ovenproof dish. Spread 2 tbsp. olive oil on the legs. Pour the red wine and chicken stock in the dish and roast for 45 minutes.


Meanwhile cook the chicken breast in a small frying pan and make the green purée.


Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a small non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Cut the chicken breast in halves lengthwise. Cook in the frying pan for 20 minutes turning once. Cover and set aside.


Peel the potatoes and cut them into pieces. Place in slightly larger saucepan and add water to cover the potatoes. Add the shallot and garlic and cook for about 15 minutes until the potatoes are soft. Drain, cover and set aside.


Cut ½ broccoli head into smaller pieces. Place in a saucepan with some water and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook for 5 minutes until soft. Transfer the broccoli into the potato saucepan reserving some of the cooking water. Add 1 tbsp. olive oil and a little cooking water and mix into a purée with a handheld mixer. If needed, add more water into a nice consistence.


For the presentation: Divide the reduced wine sauce from the ovenproof dish on the plates. Place the chicken legs and breast halves on the sauce. Arrange the green purée in the middle of the chicken pieces and decorate with chopped herbs. 


Valloire: Pain de Sucre

 

Le Pain de Sucre in sight

Less famous than the sugarloaf mountain in Rio, or even the 3208 m high Pain de Sucre above Col Agnel at the Italian border, the 1981 m high Pain de Sucre above Valloire (1400 m) is nevertheless popular among hikers. It can be easily reached from the village centre.

The ski resort of Valloire (Savoie), situated north of the Galibier mountain pass, was quite busy in the peak summer period.


Valloire Village
Valloire Village
La Borgé
La Borgé
Departing La Borgé
Departing La Borgé
Trail to Poingt Ravier
Trail to Poingt Ravier
La Mitre and Grand Galibier
La Mitre and Grand Galibier

We crossed the Valloirette River to la Borgé next to the D902 road where signposts were erected. None of them showed the route to Pain de Sucre but we knew that we had to reach the hamlet of le Poingt Ravier (1646 m) first. There were two options: To climb straight along a zigzagging path (black line on the map) or to take a slightly longer trail which first followed Gorges de l’Enfer to the west. For the ascent, we chose the latter. It turned out to be a beautiful itinerary in the larch woods with views down to the gorge. We followed the trail to 1662 m and a crossroads where we forked right (northeast) to Poingt Ravier. The earlier trail, a bit lower to the hamlet was closed.


Tree tunnel on trail to Poingt Ravier
Tree tunnel on trail to Poingt Ravier
Almost at Poingt Ravier
Almost at Poingt Ravier
Le Poingt Ravier
Le Poingt Ravier
Slopes east of Valloire
Slopes east of Valloire
Trail north of Poingt Ravier
Trail north of Poingt Ravier

At Poingt Ravier, our goal was well indicated on the signposts. We headed north, climbing along the bare eastern mountain flank, then briefly walked through a larch wood, crossed a stream named Villard. We hiked past le Clot Albanet with pasture areas and a shepherd shelter.

We had the sugarloaf in sight. Heading northeast, we soon reached its southwestern steeper grassy flank and climbed to the summit, already occupied by several hikers. There was an orientation table. We had great views down to the Valloirette Valley, peaks in the east and even a glimpse of the Vanoise Glaciers in the northeast.


Crossing Villard stream
Crossing Villard stream
View northeast from Pain de Sucre
View northeast from Pain de Sucre
Valloire seen from trail
Valloire seen from trail
Return trail to la Borgé
Return trail to la Borgé

We returned along the same trail to Poingt Ravier, then descended along the direct trail to la Borgé and Valloire Village.


Distance: 11,3 km
Climb: 660 m
Duration: 4h 40 (active)
Map: 3535 OT    

Valloire Pain de Sucre hike track