Sommet de Calern hike

 

Sommet de Calern
Sommet de Calern


Sommet de Calern (1458 m) overlooks the small village Caussols (1100 m). Only 10 km north of Grasse as the crow flies, the summit is located in the westernmost part of the Plateau de Calern. The CERGA observatory established in 1974 is about 3 km to the east of the summit.

Sommet de Calern southern flank
Sommet de Calern southern flank
Starting from Caussols
Starting from Caussols
GR4 near Caussols
GR4 near Caussols
Sinkhole by the trail
Sinkhole by the trail

The GR4 trail runs through Caussols. Starting from the village (signpost #30), we headed north first along a paved road, then along a good and recently maintained trail. We passed several fenced pasture areas which all were empty. We came under the steep southern ridge and headed northeast. The region consists mostly of limestone and we walked past some peculiar rock formations and sinkholes, avens.


We came to signpost #50 where the GR4 continued northeast to Cipières, and another trail straight east to the nearby observatory. We forked left (west), and ascended in open terrain towards the summit along a yellow-marked trail. There were many parallel paths and tracks.  


GR4 near signpost50
GR4 near signpost50
Rock formations Calern
Rock formations Calern
Trail to Sommet de Calern
Trail to Sommet de Calern
Vast Plateau de Calern
Vast Plateau de Calern
Plateau de Caussols
Plateau de Caussols

The summit (highest in Calern) was marked with a large cairn. We could see parts of Nice, the airport as well as the coast to the west, well beyond the St Tropez peninsula.


We took the same trail back to Caussols. It is possible to make a detour to the observatory or even to Colle de Rougiès



Climb: 390 m

Distance: 8.8 km

Duration: 3 h

Map: 3543 ET Haute Siagne


Sommet de Calern hike track
Sommet de Calern hike track



Lemon chicken with green olives

 

Lemon chicken with green olives



This golden lemon chicken recipe is perfect to make on a cold winter day when we are longing for warm and sunny summer days. But it is just as delightful in spring with its refreshing lemon flavour.


4 servings

1 whole organic chicken, about 1,3- 1,5 kg

200 g organic pitted olives

2 medium onions

2 cloves garlic

2 doses saffron powder

1 lemon, peeled and cut into small pieces

Juice of 1 lemon

50 ml plus 2 tbsp. olive oil

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

400 ml chicken stock

2 handfuls of organic baby spinach leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh herbs to decorate


In a bowl, mix olive oil, lemon juice, lemon pieces, Provençal herbs, black pepper, and saffron. Brush the chicken inside and outside with this mixture. Pour the rest of the marinade and lemon pieces inside the chicken. Place the chicken in the fridge for 30 minutes, then marinate in the room temperature for 30 minutes.


Preheat the oven to 190°C roast.


Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a heavy saucepan, cocotte, over medium- low heat. Peel and slice the onions, peel and mince the garlic. Add them to the cocotte and sauté for about 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock and the marinated chicken, increase the heat and bring to the boil.


Transfer the cocotte to oven and roast for 1,5 h basting regularly with the cooking liquid.


Towards the end of the roasting add the green olives and spinach to the saucepan. Continue cooking until the olives are heated and the spinach is wilted.


Carve the chicken and serve with rice mix or quinoa. If you are making this for only two persons, the leftovers can be used next day in chicken pilaf or served over pasta. 


Cime du Cheiron

Western Cheiron Ridge
Western Cheiron Ridge


 When we climbed to the Cheiron Ridge several years ago, we were interrupted by poor weather and visibility.

This time we chose a warm and clear (albeit hazy) September day for our hike.

The impressive steep southern flank of the long limestone ridge is well visible from many places on the coast. The highest point, Cime du Cheiron (1778 m) has antennas on the summit, and ski lifts from Gréolieres les Neiges near the summit on its northern side. All in all, we found the ridge more imposing than the summit itself! 

We started from signpost #30 in Gréolières (830 m) along the GR4 trail, passing the ruins of Hautes Gréolières. Most of the trail was very rocky. We came to signpost #193, forked left and continued the ascent along the GR4.

Gréolières viewed from GR4
Gréolières viewed from GR4
The Loup Valley
The Loup Valley
GR4 after signpost 193
GR4 after signpost 193
GR4 to Collet de Barri
GR4 to Collet de Barri
Collet de Barri
Collet de Barri

At Collet de Barri (1370 m), we forked right (east), leaving the GR4. The newish signpost showed the itinerary to Cime du Cheiron, and the trail had yellow markings. We first ascended in a forest. Once above the tree line, we reached the beginning of the ridge and soon came to a new signpost #404a (not in our map). The masts on the summit became visible. There were now more cairns to guide us. 


We came to an antécime with a big cairn, then hiked to the mountain top with antennas less than 100 m away. There was ongoing maintenance, and men working. We did therefore not continue to the true summit nearby. From here and as well from the ridge, we nevertheless had a panorama view all the way to the coast. Even the St-Tropez Peninsula was visible through the haze.


We descended back to Gréolières, paying attention to moving rocks on the trail.


Signpost 404a Cheiron Ridge
Signpost 404a Cheiron Ridge
Cheiron Ridge
Cheiron Ridge
Western flank of Cime du Cheiron
Western flank of Cime du Cheiron
View south from Cheiron
View south from Cheiron
Cime du Cheiron hike track
Cime du Cheiron hike track

Climb: 920 m

Distance: 11,2 km

Duration: 5h 30

Map: 3642 ET « Vallée de l’Estéron » 


Modern Choron sauce

 


Modern Choron sauce
Modern Choron sauce

Choron sauce is basically the classic Béarnaise sauce with some tomato paste. It is often served with grilled meats. Like Béarnaise sauce, Choron sauce is high in saturated fat from butter and egg yolks. 

I have experimented various sauces by using only good, heart-healthy olive oil instead of butter. The following recipe is very tasty if made with quality ingredients; organic chicken stock, the very best Italian tomato sauce and balsamic vinegar, tasty olive oil such as Alziari from Nice.

This healthy Choron sauce goes very well with steaks, pork or veal chops, and roasted mackerel fillets.

2 servings

250 ml chicken stock

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. minced shallot

1 tsp. minced garlic

½ tsp. dried Provençal herbs

3 tsp. balsamic vinegar

3 tbsp. tomato sauce, pref. Italian passata

To be whisked in just before serving: 2 tsp. tasty organic olive oil and freshly ground black pepper.



In a saucepan, warm 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat and sauté the shallot and garlic for 5- 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock, Provençal herbs, balsamic vinegar, and the tomato sauce. Increase the heat somewhat and continue cooking until the sauce is reduced by about 1/3- ½. Remove the saucepan from heat and whisk in the tasty olive oil and black pepper.


St-Véran: Crête de Curlet

 

Narrow part of Crête de Curlet
Narrow part of Crête de Curlet


Facing St-Véran on the southern side of L’Aguie Blanche Valley, the northern face of Crête Curlet is a precipice.

A cross, la Croix de Curlet (2301 m elev.), was erected on the ridge in 1905 when a lost child from the village had been found there alive. The original cross was replaced in 1998. There is a clearing around it, and it is visible from St-Véran.

The hike up to the cross and the ridge is considered easy, suitable for families according to: https://www.envie-de-queyras.com/guide/la-croix-de-curlet

Crête de Curlet seen from St-Véran
Crête de Curlet seen from St-Véran
In Bois du Moulin
In Bois du Moulin
Wolf and dog warning
Wolf and dog warning
Near Croix de Curlet
Near Croix de Curlet
Croix de Curlet St-Véran
Croix de Curlet St-Véran



Even so, if you start from St-Véran by foot as we did, you have to descend 150-200 m along the GR58 trail before reaching Pont du Moulin (1849 m). From the bridge, we ascended along the GR58, and after 450 m forked left along a PR (yellow-marked) trail to la Croix de Curlet. We ascended steeply in the woods (Bois du Moulin).  

We were aware of pasture areas south of the ridge (Cabanes de Lamaron).  There was the usual warning of sheep flocks but a bit later another one (image): wolves=patou dogs -those big white guardian dogs. We came to a clearing where a few sheep were roaming around. No dogs nearby. We saw a shortcut to the ridge and the cross, and took it, thus avoiding the flock. We reached the cross, right above St-Véran, with great views. A good trail continued along the ridge, ascending a bit. To our right, we soon saw the main sheep flock further away climbing under Pic Cascavelier at the end of the ridge.


Trail leaving Croix de Curlet
Trail leaving Croix de Curlet
Saint Véran viewed from Croix de Curlet
Saint Véran viewed from Croix de Curlet
Sheep flock south of Crête de Curlet
Sheep flock south of Crête de Curlet
Beautiful Crête de Curlet
Beautiful Crête de Curlet
Pic de Ch.Renard seen from Crête de Curlet
Pic de Ch.Renard seen from Crête de Curlet
Descending in Bois du Moulin
Descending in Bois du Moulin

Instead of doing a loop back along the meadows, we turned back to the cross after about 600 m. On the way back, we clearly saw some wolf footprints on the muddy trail (image), also those of a deer.

From the cross, we took another shortcut trail in Bois du Moulin. The trail merged with our main path. We descended back to the valley and climbed to St-Véran.

Climb: 600 m (when starting from St-Véran)

Duration: ~4 h

Distance: 7,3 km

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aguilles; PNR du Queyras


Crête de Curlet hike track
Crête de Curlet hike track


Wolf footprint
Wolf footprint

Winter pasta

 

Winter pasta


The choice of vegetables for this pasta reflects the season: choose roasted winter squash and pistou instead of fresh tomato sauce and basil leaves that you would choose in summer. Pistou is the traditional way of conserving fresh basil over winter in Provençe. It is a paste made from crushed basil leaves, olive oil, salt, and a dash of crushed garlic. It is still sold in small glass jars in the South of France. If you cannot find pistou in your shops, you can replace it with rocket pistou , the recipe follows. Rocket or arugula is a peppery salad, almost a herb, which survives low temperatures much better than the delicate basil even in the Mediterranean countries.  

2 servings

Wholewheat spaghetti or tagliatelle for 2 servings

1-2 handfuls of chopped winter squash

About 200 g chicken breast, cut into smallish pieces

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

A handful of cherry tomatoes, halved

Olive oil

100 ml chicken stock 

Freshly ground black pepper

A handful of grated parmesan

       1-2 tbsp. pistou or rocket pistou

Recipe for rocket pistou:

A small handful of chopped rocket leaves

About 1 tbsp. olive oil

A pinch of salt

1/3 clove of garlic, minced

.

If you don’t have ready-made pistou and need to make rocket pistou, start with this. Crush all the ingredients in a mortar with a pestle. If needed, add a little more olive oil for a nice consistence. Keep refrigerated until needed.


Preheat the oven to 210° C, roast.


Place the chopped winter squash in a small oven-proof dish in single layer and mix with 1 tbsp. olive oil until coated.  Roast for about 25 minutes until soft.


Meanwhile sauté the chicken pieces in olive oil over medium heat for about 5- 10 minutes. Add the shallot, garlic, and cherry tomatoes. Continue sautéing for 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock and reduce the heat to simmering. 


Cook the pasta and grate the parmesan. Drain the cooked pasta, divide on the plates and fold in the parmesan with a fork. Top the pasta with with sautéd chicken and roasted winter squash. Sprinkle over the pistou or rocket pistou.


Queyras: La Gardiole de l'Alp


La Gardiole de l'Alp summit
La Gardiole de l'Alp summit


In the Queyras Regional Nature Park, La Gardiole de l’Alp (2786 m) is an easily reached summit. Situated northeast of Molines-en-Queyras, the peak is less visited in summer but popular among ski tourers and snowshoers due to the topography of its grassy south-facing flank.

We took the D205 road from Molines-en-Queyras to Pierre Grosse (1915 m), and found a parking by the road near the village entrance.

La Gardiole de l'Alp seen from Sommet Bucher
La Gardiole de l'Alp seen from Sommet Bucher
Signpost Pierre Grosse
Signpost Pierre Grosse
Leaving Pierre Grosse
Leaving Pierre Grosse
Above Molines-en-Queyras view south
Above Molines-en-Queyras view south
Easy start from Pierre Grosse
Easy start from Pierre Grosse
Above Pierre Grosse
Above Pierre Grosse

We walked through the village, heading west. After about 400 m, we came to a crossroads and an informative signpost where we forked right along a road named Lou Caire, passing several chalets. The itinerary then followed a dirt track, partly in the woods. After about 2 km we again forked right, and climbed more steeply, passing the Bergerie de l’Alp.


After the hut (no livestock on that day), we ascended in a vast Alpine meadow, heading northeast. The trail zigzagged in the open terrain, and was well marked with yellow sticks so that you always had the next one visible when climbing. Just before the summit we passed a short rocky and narrow stretch, nothing difficult. We only met two other hikers on the trail.


Bergerie de l'Alp
Bergerie de l'Alp
Above Bergerie de l'Alp
Above Bergerie de l'Alp
View west La Gardiole de l'Alp southern flank
View to west from Gardiole south flank

Rocky stretch before la Gardiole de l'Alp
Rocky stretch before la Gardiole de l'Alp
Pic de Ch.Renard seen from northwest
Pic de Ch.Renard seen from northwest

The summit was marked with a cross. Not surprisingly, we were rewarded with super views. The north-eastern flank was precipitous. The ridge trail continued south-east. 

We returned along the same trail, as planned in the morning. A somewhat longer option would have been a loop via Crête de Batailler to Col du Clot du Loup, and back to the starting point. 


Climb: 880 m

Distance: 11,5 km

Duration: 5h 20

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aiguilles PNR du Queyras


Gardiole de l'Alp hike trail
Gardiole de l'Alp hike trail


Lemon-balsamic chicken thighs

 

Lemon-balsamic chicken thighs
Lemon-balsamic chicken thighs


Meaty chicken thighs with skin are tasty pieces of chicken and very versatile. The skin keeps the meat juicy during the cooking and can easily be removed on the plates as most of the chicken fat is directly under the skin.

Chicken thighs can be simply rubbed with olive oil before roasting or, as in this recipe, coated with a tasty sauce.

2 servings

4 chicken thighs with skin

Sauce:

2 tbsp. olive oil

Juice and zest of ½ organic lemon

2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs


Preheat the oven to 200°C, roast.


Place the chicken thighs in an oven- proof dish. Mix all the ingredients for the sauce and pour over the thighs. Roast for about 45 minutes.


Meanwhile wash 2 tomatoes, cut into halves and coat with breadcrumbs and some olive oil. Roast in the same dish as the thighs for 20 minutes.


Cook some wholewheat pasta and great a little parmesan.


Serve the chicken thighs with pasta and roasted tomato halves.