Vaucluse: Long loop hike above Malaucène

 

Chapelle de Piaud


In Vaucluse(84), the Terra Rando Guide offers over 150 hiking itineraries from short walks to more demanding routes.

Malaucène is mainly known as one of the gateways to Mont Ventoux, and not surprisingly shops were full of cycling paraphernalia. 

Malaucène centre
Malaucène centre
Pont Vieux Malaucène
Pont Vieux Malaucène
Near Notre Dame du Groseau
Near Notre Dame du Groseau

We wanted to check the longer loop presented in the guidebook. It turned out to be a variable itinerary, with the best stretches in the middle of the hike, on the picturesque ridge located south of the town. However, the return trail from Lac du Paty was less interesting. The marked trail went near private properties, and at one point free roaming very aggressive dogs threatened us! The return itinerary also comprised paved country roads, crossings of the busy N938 road etc. 


Glimpse of Malaucène from trail
Glimpse of Malaucène from trail
Towards Chapelle de Piaud
Towards Chapelle de Piaud

From Malaucène, we followed Av. de Petrarque, then the main road to Mont Ventoux (D974) about 900 m where we forked right (signposts) before Chapelle Notre-Dame du Groseau. We then walked past some abandoned warehouses and located a narrow path which ascended in the woods and soon crossed the D974 road again. We now headed east and climbed along a good trail to Chapelle de Piaud which was the highest point of our hike (about 690 m). We forked right (south), and descended a bit before crossing the D974 again.


We descended rapidly along a wide but rocky trail to Combe Obscure where we forked right (south). At a crossroads we took the right-hand path and climbed to a long, mostly forested ridge. We descended slowly, heading southwest. We crossed another local road (D19) and continued towards Lac du Paty (300 m). We passed the Chapelle du Paty a little before the lake. The ascent to Chapelle de Piaud and the long forested ridge marked the most interesting parts of the hike. 


Trail below Chapelle Piaud
Trail below Chapelle Piaud
Near Combe Obscure
Near Combe Obscure
Glimpse of Mont Ventoux
Glimpse of Mont Ventoux
Ridge above Malaucène
Ridge above Malaucène
View to south from the ridge
View to south from the ridge

The final descent to the lake was steep. We then crossed a parking area, still following the GR de Pays markings, climbed a bit before turning northeast where we met the angry dogs. We came to a crossroads near Font Mourèle, headed north while the  GR de Pays trail turned left. We continued along a narrow paved road to the N938 road, crossed it and followed yellow markings. The trail made a small detour passing some vineyards before merging with another paved road, and we climbed along it to Saint-Michel by the N938 road. To avoid the busy road, our itinerary forked left and we descended along a paved road about 1,2 km then turned 90° right (east) then up to Col de Ronin (371 m) where we finally had Malaucène in sight.

However, the direct pedestrian route (Chemin du Col de Ronin) was blocked due to construction, and we had to follow the busy N938 down to the town centre. All in all, we would recommend an out and back hike, having for example the Chapelle du Paty as a turning point.


Descent from Malaucène ridge
Descent from Malaucène ridge
Near Chapelle du Paty
Near Chapelle du Paty
Chapelle du Paty
Chapelle du Paty

Climb: 660 m
Distance: 16,5 km
Duration: 5h 40
Map: IGN 3040 and 3140 ET

Malaucène loop track
Malaucène loop track


Mussels and vegetables with orzo and salmon roe

 

Mussels and vegetables with orzo and salmon roe


The following recipe is a visual delight! If you cannot find good fresh mussels, you can replace them with peeled prawns. We prefer French mussels from Bretagne or Normandy. 

2 servings

About 700 g fresh quality mussels

olive oil

1 shallot, chopped 

1 clove garlic, minced

150 ml white wine

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp. crème fraiche, 15 % fat

Orzo for 2 servings

About 6 small broccoli bouquets

About 80 g salmon roe in a jar

A few sprigs of parsley to decorate


Start by making the sauce. Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the shallot and garlic for about 5 minutes. Add the white wine and black pepper and cook until reduced by half.


Cook the orzo according to the advice on the package. Drain and return to the saucepan. Pour the white wine sauce to the saucepan with orzo and mix. Cover and keep warm. Stir in the crème fraiche just before serving.


Wash the broccoli bouquets and cook in a small amount of boiling water until soft. Drain and return to the saucepan. Cover and keep warm.


Wash the mussels in running water. Discard any with damaged shells or which do not close if banged hard on the kitchen sink. Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the mussels and cover. When steam starts forming cook for 4- 6 minutes until the mussels have opened. Take them from the saucepan with a slotted spoon.  Remove the mussels from their shells and discard any that have not opened. 


Divide the orzo and its sauce in the bowls. Add the mussels and broccoli. Dot with salmon roe and decorate with parsley sprigs. 


Gigondas: Short loop hike above the village

 

Rhone Valley seen from Gigondas


The picturesque village of Gigondas in the Vaucluse Department is famous worldwide for its excellent wine. The following hike suggested in the TerraRando guide offers great views down to the village as well as the Dentelles and the vast Rhone River Valley.


Gigondas main street
Gigondas main street
Chemin de la Canal
Chemin de la Canal
Crossroads near vineyard
Crossroads near vineyard
Climbing to Col du Cayron
Climbing to Col du Cayron

We opted for the shorter version of the hike. Starting from the main square, we followed Rue Eugène Raspail less than 200 m, forked right at the signpost showing Col du Cayron, Les Hospices etc. and soon continued along Chemin de Font Saine. After almost 1 km from the start, the shorter itinerary forked right just before a small vineyard. We ascended along a narrow trail, now heading south. Following the signs and markings, we eventually reached a wide track and climbed to Col de Cayron (394 m).

We forked right (west) still along a wide track, and reached a crossroads after 1,1 km where we took a detour (some stairs) to Rocher du Midi (470 m), the highest point of this hike with great views of the surrounding landscape. 

We descended to Chemin des Dentelles de Montmirail (partly paved) and followed it back to the village.

It was a perfect morning hike and we were back for lunch in one of the Gigondas restaurants.


Dentelles above Gigondas
Dentelles above Gigondas
Hills above Gigondas
Hills above Gigondas

Stairs to Rocher du Midi
Stairs to Rocher du Midi
Rocher du Midi Gigondas
Rocher du Midi Gigondas

Distance: 6 km
Climb: 250 m
Duration: 2 h


Gigondas hike track


Bistrot salad with green beans

 

Bistrot salad with green beans


Le bistrot is a simple restaurant offering classic and moderately-priced dishes which are well-made and often from local ingredients. Any salad with green beans and vinaigrette from olive oil and moutarde à l’ancienne, old-style mustard, could be called bistrot.

This salad is great to make in autumn and winter when we crave more cooked dishes. In France, the green beans are in season all year round.

2 servings

2 full handfuls of fresh green beans

6 slices of Parma ham

About 12 cherry tomatoes

About 12 radishes

2 eggs

8 black olives

Rocket leaves to decorate

For the vinaigrette:

3 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. lemon juice

1 tbsp. moutarde à l’ancienne

Freshly ground black pepper

Chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, chives and so on


Cook the eggs 6 minutes in boiling water. Peel and set aside.


Top and tail the green beans. Cook 5 minutes in boiling water, then drain and cool in cold water to preserve the colour. Set aside to dry.


Wash and dry the cherry tomatoes and radishes. Cut the cherry tomatoes in halves and slice the radishes. Set aside.


Make the vinaigrette by whisking together all the ingredients. Divide into smaller bowls and serve separately on the salad plates.


Divide the green beans, cherry tomatoes, radish slices, and black olives on the plates. Top with the eggs and cut them in halves. Place the Parma ham  among the salad. Sprinkle with some rocket leaves and place the vinaigrette bowl on the plates. Serve with some country bread or rye bread for a balanced meal. 


Visit to St-Honorat Island


Abbey of Lérins

 The smaller of the two inhabited Lérins islands, St-Honorat, can be reached from Cannes Harbour by a regular boat shuttle.  It is a tranquil spot outside of the busy Riviera where no cars or even bikes are allowed.

The monks of the Lerins Abbey have lived on the island for 16 centuries. They produce renowned wine using ancestral methods mainly from Clairette, Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Pinot Noir varieties grown in their 8 hectare vineyard.

Cannes Harbour
Cannes Harbour
Leaving Cannes
Leaving Cannes
St-Honorat trail
St-Honorat trail

The boat from Cannes took 15 minutes. It was a super autumn day with clear skies and pleasant temperatures. A regatta took place in Cannes on the day of our visit and the harbour was busy. However, most of the  Lérins islands’ visitors went to the larger Saint Marguarite Island.


Cannes seen from St-Honorat
Cannes seen from St-Honorat
St-Honorat southern shore
St-Honorat southern shore
Monastery tower St-Honorat
Monastery tower St-Honorat

We started with a walk around the island (40 min) along the wide path following the shoreline. Walking anticlockwise, we stopped at the sole restaurant named La Tonnelle to reserve a table for lunch. We circled around the western tip of the island and headed towards the Abbey. Our timing coincided with a Mass and we did not visit the Abbey or its garden. The fortified monastery was closed for renovation. We explored the shop and bought a bottle of organic white (St.Pierre 2022, 4100 bottles produced; Clairette and Chardonnay grapes in addition to a little Rolle). 

We continued to the eastern tip in a pine forest before returning to our starting point and the restaurant for lunch.


Abbey Garden St-Honorat
Abbey Garden St-Honorat
St-Honorat eastern tip
St-Honorat eastern tip
St-Honorat vineyard
St-Honorat vineyard

Abbey of Lerins white
Abbey of Lerins white

St-Honorat map


Italian salad plate

 

Italian salad plate


This colourful salad plate with Italian antipasti flavours makes a nice lunch on a warm autumn day when the basil and local tomatoes are still in season.

The day before cook slices of courgette and red bell pepper in olive oil in a grill pan. Cover and let marinate overnight in refrigerator.

2 servings

4 slices of grilled and marinated red bell pepper

2 slices of grilled and marinated courgette

Olive oil

4 slices of cantaloupe melon

4 slices of Parma ham

2 tomatoes, chopped

8 black olives, pitted and sliced

About 250 g ricotta

2 handfuls of rocket

Freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil vinaigrette

Fresh basil to decorate


Place the chopped tomatoes in a bowl with 1 tbsp. of olive oil, and the sliced black olives. Mix and let marinate for a few minutes.


Divide the ricotta in a nice heap in the middle of the plates.


Arrange the grilled antipasti vegetables in one corner of the plates.


Divide the cantaloupe slices on the plates and top with Parma ham. 


Place a heap of rocket in one corner of the plates and the marinated tomatoes in their corner. 


Grind over some black pepper and sprinkle with olive oil vinaigrette. Decorate with basil. Serve with some good country bread for a balanced meal.


Camp des Fourches to Col de Pouriac

 

Salse Morene



The northern corner of Alpes Maritimes offers quite peculiar alpine sceneries and hiking itineraries during the summer months. The road over Col de la Bonette closes sometimes quite early depending on weather after which access to today’s starting point at Camp des Fourches (2240 m) is not anymore possible.

We had previously hiked to Pas de la Cavale, and now wanted to explore the trail to Col de Pouriac (2506 m) at the Italian border.

Camp des Fourches
Camp des Fourches
GR5 east of Camp des Fourches
GR5 east of Camp des Fourches
Pas de la Cavale and Salse Morene
Pas de la Cavale and Salse Morene
GR5 from Col des Fourches
GR5 from Col des Fourches

From Camp des Fourches we headed east along the GR5 trail, reaching Col des Fourches (2261 m) in less than 10 minutes. The vast area named Salse Morene was now below us, circled by majestic peaks. Spanish soldiers had coined it Salsa Moreno as the ravines turned to brownish sauce after heavy downpours.


Our day, however,  was clear and dry. The scenery was just amazing. We descended 180 m to the bottom of the valley known for its sinkholes, dolines. We crossed the dry Ravin de la Tour then passed a stone hut seemingly used by sheep farmers. Soon after the hut, we reached a crossroads and signpost #37. The GR5 trail forked left and a smaller unmarked trail turned to the right. Our trail was the middle one, and marked both with yellow (PR) and white/red as it was also the itinerary of the Grande traversée du Mercantour, GTM (17 days!).


Signpost#37 to Col de Pouriac
Signpost#37 to Col de Pouriac
Riverbed in Salse Morene
Riverbed in Salse Morene
Halfway to Col de Pouriac
Halfway to Col de Pouriac
Nearing Col de Pouriac
Nearing Col de Pouriac
Col de Pouriac
Col de Pouriac

We continued the ascent, heading northeast. Most of the trail was grassy and soft, easy on your feet. All of the itinerary ran inside the Mercantour National Park. We hiked past a few unnamed lakes before reaching the flat mountain pass of Pouriac (signpost #39). The long GTM trail descended to Ferrière  in Italy before re-entering France via Col du Fer.


We enjoyed the early autumn tranquillity together with numerous marmots, and returned to Camp des Fourches using the same trail.


Distance: 10 km 
Climb:       640 m 
Duration:  4h 15
Map: Haute Tinée 1 3639 OT

Col de Pouriac track


Stuffed red bell peppers and orzo

 

Stuffed red bell peppers and orzo


Stuffed bell peppers is a classic Mediterranean dish. The stuffing used to be made from ground lamb or a mixture of lamb and beef. Nowadays it could be made from vegetables and sausages or vegetables and some cheese.

In this recipe, the stuffing is a rich and thick Bolognese sauce made from beef, herbs, and tomato paste. The bell peppers are served on a bed of creamy orzo or other small shape pasta.

2 servings

2 large red bell peppers

Olive oil

Orzo for 2 servings

1 tbsp. crème fraiche 15 % fat or cream

For the Bolognese:

About 250 g ground lean beef

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced 

olive oil

150 ml chicken stock

3 tbsp. organic tomato paste

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

Chopped basil to decorate


Start with the Bolognese. Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a heavy sauté pan and lightly brown the ground meat. Add the shallot and garlic and continue sautéing for about 5 minutes.


Add the chicken stock, tomato paste, herbs, and black pepper and mix well. Let simmer for about 10 minutes. 


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.

 

Wash and dry the red bell peppers. Cut “hats” from the stem ends and remove the seeds. Fill the peppers with the Bolognese.


Oil a small oven-proof dish with olive oil. Place the bell peppers in the dish with their decorative “hats” on the side. Roast for 20- 30 minutes until the peppers are soft.


Meanwhile cook the orzo according to the advice on the package. When the pasta is done, drain it and return to the saucepan. Mix in the crème fraiche.


Divide the orzo on the plates and place the red bell peppers on top. Decorate with basil.


Walk from Antibes to Juan-les-Pins

Picasso Museum Antibes

This delightful walk starts from the parking facing the harbourmaster’s office, next to the Antibes old town.

Port and Fort Vauban
Port and Fort Vauban
La Gravette Beach Antibes
La Gravette Beach Antibes

We started along the seafront, passing the Picasso Museum then the Albert 1er Square. We reached Plage du Ponteil where we forked right, crossing the Ponteil Park and followed  Boulevard du Cap then Chemin des Sables over the peninsula to Juan-les-Pins. Juan-les-Pins is today part of the City of Antibes.


Antibes seafront
Antibes seafront
La Pinède Juan les Pins
La Pinède Juan les Pins
Av Georges Gallice Juan-les-Pins
Av Georges Gallice Juan-les-Pins
Golf Juan
Golf Juan

We passed tranquil upscale residences before reaching Juan-les-Pins.  There was still a lot of activity on the warm early autumn day of our walk. We walked through la Pinède where the renown jazz festival is held each July.


Our timing was perfect for lunch at one of the restaurants facing Golf Juan, with views towards  the Esterel mountains and Lérins islands. Needless to say, we chose seafood!



Distance: about 7,5 km ↔
Duration: about 2 h
Climb: about 55 m  ↔

Antibes walk


Fried small seafood and orzo

 

Small seafood orzo


This recipe is inspired by a lunch we once had in Bar des Oiseaux in Nice. There, the small cuttlefish was fried with cooked orzo and some rocket leaves were added to the dish. Simple but effective.

Because fresh small cuttlefish can be difficult to find I have replaced it with a small package of frozen mixed seafood, Fruits de Mer. According to the advice on the package, defrosted mixed seafood only need 4 minutes in a hot frying pan. If you cannot find orzo, you can replace it with similar small pasta shapes resembling large rice grains.

2 servings

Orzo for 2 servings

A small package, about 400 g, defrosted mixed seafood

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette or other mild chilli

3 tbsp. olive oil

2 handfuls of baby rocket leaves


Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat and cook the shallot and garlic about 10 minutes until soft but not brown. With a slotted spoon, remove from the pan and set aside. 


Meanwhile cook and drain the orzo according to the advice on the package. Set aside.


Add 1 more tbsp. olive oil in the sauté pan and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook the defrosted seafood for 4 minutes stirring frequently. 


Add the orzo and Piment d’Espelette in the sauté pan and cook for a minute or two stirring all the time until the orzo is well coated with oil. 


Add the shallot, garlic, and rocket to the pan and mix well. Divide on the plates and serve.