St-Véran: Crête de Curlet

 

Narrow part of Crête de Curlet
Narrow part of Crête de Curlet


Facing St-Véran on the southern side of L’Aguie Blanche Valley, the northern face of Crête Curlet is a precipice.

A cross, la Croix de Curlet (2301 m elev.), was erected on the ridge in 1905 when a lost child from the village had been found there alive. The original cross was replaced in 1998. There is a clearing around it, and it is visible from St-Véran.

The hike up to the cross and the ridge is considered easy, suitable for families according to: https://www.envie-de-queyras.com/guide/la-croix-de-curlet

Crête de Curlet seen from St-Véran
Crête de Curlet seen from St-Véran
In Bois du Moulin
In Bois du Moulin
Wolf and dog warning
Wolf and dog warning
Near Croix de Curlet
Near Croix de Curlet
Croix de Curlet St-Véran
Croix de Curlet St-Véran



Even so, if you start from St-Véran by foot as we did, you have to descend 150-200 m along the GR58 trail before reaching Pont du Moulin (1849 m). From the bridge, we ascended along the GR58, and after 450 m forked left along a PR (yellow-marked) trail to la Croix de Curlet. We ascended steeply in the woods (Bois du Moulin).  

We were aware of pasture areas south of the ridge (Cabanes de Lamaron).  There was the usual warning of sheep flocks but a bit later another one (image): wolves=patou dogs -those big white guardian dogs. We came to a clearing where a few sheep were roaming around. No dogs nearby. We saw a shortcut to the ridge and the cross, and took it, thus avoiding the flock. We reached the cross, right above St-Véran, with great views. A good trail continued along the ridge, ascending a bit. To our right, we soon saw the main sheep flock further away climbing under Pic Cascavelier at the end of the ridge.


Trail leaving Croix de Curlet
Trail leaving Croix de Curlet
Saint Véran viewed from Croix de Curlet
Saint Véran viewed from Croix de Curlet
Sheep flock south of Crête de Curlet
Sheep flock south of Crête de Curlet
Beautiful Crête de Curlet
Beautiful Crête de Curlet
Pic de Ch.Renard seen from Crête de Curlet
Pic de Ch.Renard seen from Crête de Curlet
Descending in Bois du Moulin
Descending in Bois du Moulin

Instead of doing a loop back along the meadows, we turned back to the cross after about 600 m. On the way back, we clearly saw some wolf footprints on the muddy trail (image), also those of a deer.

From the cross, we took another shortcut trail in Bois du Moulin. The trail merged with our main path. We descended back to the valley and climbed to St-Véran.

Climb: 600 m (when starting from St-Véran)

Duration: ~4 h

Distance: 7,3 km

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aguilles; PNR du Queyras


Crête de Curlet hike track
Crête de Curlet hike track


Wolf footprint
Wolf footprint

Winter pasta

 

Winter pasta


The choice of vegetables for this pasta reflects the season: choose roasted winter squash and pistou instead of fresh tomato sauce and basil leaves that you would choose in summer. Pistou is the traditional way of conserving fresh basil over winter in Provençe. It is a paste made from crushed basil leaves, olive oil, salt, and a dash of crushed garlic. It is still sold in small glass jars in the South of France. If you cannot find pistou in your shops, you can replace it with rocket pistou , the recipe follows. Rocket or arugula is a peppery salad, almost a herb, which survives low temperatures much better than the delicate basil even in the Mediterranean countries.  

2 servings

Wholewheat spaghetti or tagliatelle for 2 servings

1-2 handfuls of chopped winter squash

About 200 g chicken breast, cut into smallish pieces

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

A handful of cherry tomatoes, halved

Olive oil

100 ml chicken stock 

Freshly ground black pepper

A handful of grated parmesan

       1-2 tbsp. pistou or rocket pistou

Recipe for rocket pistou:

A small handful of chopped rocket leaves

About 1 tbsp. olive oil

A pinch of salt

1/3 clove of garlic, minced

.

If you don’t have ready-made pistou and need to make rocket pistou, start with this. Crush all the ingredients in a mortar with a pestle. If needed, add a little more olive oil for a nice consistence. Keep refrigerated until needed.


Preheat the oven to 210° C, roast.


Place the chopped winter squash in a small oven-proof dish in single layer and mix with 1 tbsp. olive oil until coated.  Roast for about 25 minutes until soft.


Meanwhile sauté the chicken pieces in olive oil over medium heat for about 5- 10 minutes. Add the shallot, garlic, and cherry tomatoes. Continue sautéing for 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock and reduce the heat to simmering. 


Cook the pasta and grate the parmesan. Drain the cooked pasta, divide on the plates and fold in the parmesan with a fork. Top the pasta with with sautéd chicken and roasted winter squash. Sprinkle over the pistou or rocket pistou.


Queyras: La Gardiole de l'Alp


La Gardiole de l'Alp summit
La Gardiole de l'Alp summit


In the Queyras Regional Nature Park, La Gardiole de l’Alp (2786 m) is an easily reached summit. Situated northeast of Molines-en-Queyras, the peak is less visited in summer but popular among ski tourers and snowshoers due to the topography of its grassy south-facing flank.

We took the D205 road from Molines-en-Queyras to Pierre Grosse (1915 m), and found a parking by the road near the village entrance.

La Gardiole de l'Alp seen from Sommet Bucher
La Gardiole de l'Alp seen from Sommet Bucher
Signpost Pierre Grosse
Signpost Pierre Grosse
Leaving Pierre Grosse
Leaving Pierre Grosse
Above Molines-en-Queyras view south
Above Molines-en-Queyras view south
Easy start from Pierre Grosse
Easy start from Pierre Grosse
Above Pierre Grosse
Above Pierre Grosse

We walked through the village, heading west. After about 400 m, we came to a crossroads and an informative signpost where we forked right along a road named Lou Caire, passing several chalets. The itinerary then followed a dirt track, partly in the woods. After about 2 km we again forked right, and climbed more steeply, passing the Bergerie de l’Alp.


After the hut (no livestock on that day), we ascended in a vast Alpine meadow, heading northeast. The trail zigzagged in the open terrain, and was well marked with yellow sticks so that you always had the next one visible when climbing. Just before the summit we passed a short rocky and narrow stretch, nothing difficult. We only met two other hikers on the trail.


Bergerie de l'Alp
Bergerie de l'Alp
Above Bergerie de l'Alp
Above Bergerie de l'Alp
View west La Gardiole de l'Alp southern flank
View to west from Gardiole south flank

Rocky stretch before la Gardiole de l'Alp
Rocky stretch before la Gardiole de l'Alp
Pic de Ch.Renard seen from northwest
Pic de Ch.Renard seen from northwest

The summit was marked with a cross. Not surprisingly, we were rewarded with super views. The north-eastern flank was precipitous. The ridge trail continued south-east. 

We returned along the same trail, as planned in the morning. A somewhat longer option would have been a loop via Crête de Batailler to Col du Clot du Loup, and back to the starting point. 


Climb: 880 m

Distance: 11,5 km

Duration: 5h 20

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aiguilles PNR du Queyras


Gardiole de l'Alp hike trail
Gardiole de l'Alp hike trail


Lemon-balsamic chicken thighs

 

Lemon-balsamic chicken thighs
Lemon-balsamic chicken thighs


Meaty chicken thighs with skin are tasty pieces of chicken and very versatile. The skin keeps the meat juicy during the cooking and can easily be removed on the plates as most of the chicken fat is directly under the skin.

Chicken thighs can be simply rubbed with olive oil before roasting or, as in this recipe, coated with a tasty sauce.

2 servings

4 chicken thighs with skin

Sauce:

2 tbsp. olive oil

Juice and zest of ½ organic lemon

2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs


Preheat the oven to 200°C, roast.


Place the chicken thighs in an oven- proof dish. Mix all the ingredients for the sauce and pour over the thighs. Roast for about 45 minutes.


Meanwhile wash 2 tomatoes, cut into halves and coat with breadcrumbs and some olive oil. Roast in the same dish as the thighs for 20 minutes.


Cook some wholewheat pasta and great a little parmesan.


Serve the chicken thighs with pasta and roasted tomato halves.


Queyras: Sommet Bucher

Sommet Bucher view southeast
Sommet Bucher view southeast

Situated between Château-Queyras and Molines-en-Queyras, the mountain top of Sommet Bucher (2254 m) is surrounded by forests and pasture areas. A road near the summit was built already in 1892 when it was considered an important military observation point. Due to easy access, it has become a popular hiking area in the Queyras Regional Nature Park.


We used the village of la Chalp of St-Véran (1768 m) as our starting point. La Chalp is located by the D5 road, some three km from St-Véran.


Sommet Bucher seen from east
Sommet Bucher seen from east
La Chalp St-Véran
La Chalp St-Véran
Steep trail above la Chalp
Steep trail above la Chalp
Easy part of GRP trail from la Chalp
Easy part of GRP trail from la Chalp
GRP trail near Chapelle St-Simon
GRP trail near Chapelle St-Simon

We ascended along the GRP* trail (yellow-red) named GRP Tour de la Dent de la Ratier, heading northwest. In the beginning, the incline was steep. We reached about 2200 m where the trail levelled off. We passed pasture areas with livestock, Lac des Clots and the Chapel St-Simon. After a short descent we came to Col des Prés de Fromage (2146 m), and a crossroads of several trails.


We left the GRP trail and headed straight north to the summit of Bucher along a yellow-marked trail. There were many parallel paths in the woods. There was a stone hut on the summit with orientation tables on both sides. Some treetops prevented a full 360° panorama, but the views were nevertheless excellent.


Pasture area near Chapelle St-Simon
Pasture area near Chapelle St-Simon
Chapelle St-Simon
Chapelle St-Simon
View to west Col des Prés de Fromage
View west Col des Prés de Fromage
Sommet Bucher
Sommet Bucher
Moline en Queyras
Moline en Queyras

We used another trail for the short descent back to Col de Prés Fromage, then forked left (Molines par la Seiche) and descended in the forest via Clot Henri (a clearing with a renovated shepherd’s hut), reaching soon a wide gravel track. At la Seiche, there was a short but steep rocky stretch. We came to l’Aguie Agnelle stream, crossed a wooden bridge then forked right towards la Chalp. The trail first followed the stream, then ran next to the D5 for a few hundred meters, and before la Chalp continued in a meadow.

It turned out to be a great loop hike in beautiful mid-altitude surroundings. The return itinerary straight down to the valley then upstream back to la Chalp might be considered less interesting by some but enabled a loop hike. The other option is to hike back along the same trail.


Distance: 13 km 


Climb: 660 m


Duration: 5 h


Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran.Aguilles; PNR du Queyras


*) Grande Randonnée de Pays, a regional trail, often a loop and shorter than a GR trail.


Sommet Bucher hike trail
Sommet Bucher hike trail



Winter salad à la Salo

Winter salad à la Salo


This recipe is inspired by a first course we had in a restaurant in Salo, Finland one snowy winter evening. The combination of roasted winter squash cubes, rocket salad leaves, and crumbled feta cheese was very tasty.

With some good wholegrain bread, you can serve the salad for a light and anti-oxidant rich lunch. A smaller portion makes a nice first course.

2 servings for lunch

2 handfuls of winter squash cubes

1 small onion, sliced

1 clove garlic, minced

Olive oil

3 handfuls of rocket salad leaves

A handful of crumbled feta

2 tbsp. olive oil vinaigrette


Preheat the oven to 210°C, roast.


Place 2 tbsp. olive oil in a plastic bag. Add the winter squash cubes, onion slices, and minced garlic. Shake well and pour into an oven- proof dish in one layer. Roast for 25- 30 minutes until the vegetables are soft and have got some colour. Set aside.


Divide the salad on the plates. Add the roasted vegetables and top with crumbled feta. Sprinkle with olive oil vinaigrette.



Saint-Véran: Col des Estronques

 

View southeast from Col des Estronques
View southeast from Col des Estronques


The 130 km* long GR58 (Tour de Queyras) long distance hiking trail connects St-Véran (2040 m) and Ceillac (1640 m) in the Queyras Regional Nature Park.

The trail runs via the Col des Estronques Mountain pass (2651 m). Some years ago, we had to turn around just before the col when a fierce thunderstorm hit the area.

Crossing Torrent de Curlet
Crossing Torrent de Curlet
GR58 after Torrent de Curlet
GR58 after Torrent de Curlet
GR58 Bois du Moulin in background
GR58 Bois du Moulin in background

This time good weather was forecasted for the whole day, and we first descended along the GR58 from St-Véran to Pont du Moulin (1849 m), and crossed the l’Aguie Blanche torrent.


The continuous ascent started after the wooden bridge. We first followed a wide track, then a good path, and crossed the Torrent de Curlet. The incline became steeper. GR trails are very well marked (white-red) and this itinerary did not make an exception. We crossed another stream, and ascended a while in the woods before reaching beautiful Alpine meadow above the tree line. Our goal, Col des Estronques, was in sight. Some rocky stretches remained, nothing difficult or exposed. Apart from the rather short Alpine meadow, the trail was steep. 



Saint-Véran and Pic de Ch.Renard
Saint-Véran and Pic du Ch.Renard
Alpine meadow before Col des Estronques
Alpine meadow before Col des Estronques
GR58 near Col des Estronques
GR58 near col des Estronques
Col des Estronques
Col des Estronques

The day remained clear with just some cumulus clouds, and we could admire the mountain range south of Ceillac as well as the 3000+m peaks in the north, such as Grand Glaiza and Bric Froid.


A trail went up to Tête de Jacquette (2757 m), the nearest mountain top east of the col. 


We took the same trail back to St-Véran. Depending on where you stay, the ascent from Pont du Moulin is 150-200 m.


Climb: ~950 m (ascent back to St-Véran included)


Distance: 11 km

Duration: about 5 h active

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aiguilles PNR du Queyras



Col des Estronques hike trail
Col des Estronques hike trail



Roasted chicken breasts coated with Dijon mustard and breadcrumbs

Roasted chicken breasts coated with Dijon mustard and breadcrumbs


The following recipe makes a quick and tasty dinner when you need the food fast on the plates after a long day in the mountains or elsewhere…Serve it with black or parboiled brown rice and some simple roasted vegetables like courgette wedges or tomato halves.

2 servings

2 chicken breasts

2 tbsp. breadcrumbs

2 tbsp. grated parmesan cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

A generous amount, about 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard

Olive oil


Preheat the oven to 200° C, roast.


Combine the breadcrumbs, parmesan cheese, and black pepper. Spread the mixture on a plate.


Spread the mustard on both sides of chicken breasts, then coat them with the breadcrumb mixture. Transfer the chicken breasts in an oiled oven- proof dish and sprinkle some olive oil on them. Roast for 25 minutes together with the vegetables.


Meanwhile cook the rice. Divide the chicken, vegetables, and rice on the plates and decorate with some fresh herbs.

Monêtier les Bains: Pas de l'Ane and Serre Chevalier

 

Pas de l'Ane Monetier
                            Pas de l'Ane above Monetier

In summer, some of the chairlifts in the Serre Chevalier area open, serving walkers, sightseers and mountain bikers.

Taking an advantage of them is a very good idea if thunderstorms are forecasted in the afternoon or if you simply prefer to do a shorter hike. But thanks to the vast network of trails, you can perfectly well start at over 2000 m elev. and still find long and strenuous itineraries if you wish.

Here’s what we did on the last two days of our stay:

Day 1: Pas de l’Ane (2494 m)

From Monétier les Bains (1500 m), we took the Bachas chair lift up to 2174 m. In winter, it is the westernmost part of the big Serre Chevalier ski resort. The GR54 runs past le Bachas. 

We followed the GR54 to the south, ascending a bit. It was basically a wide track. After about one km, we forked right, first following another gravel track, then a path. The scenery was surprisingly wild and the incline became steep before the col. The mountain pass too was narrow and steep. The nearest glaciers were less than 3 km away in the west.

We descended back to the Bachas chairlift, first along the same trail, then took a shortcut along some unofficial trails and meadows.

Bachas chairlift Monêtier
Bachas chairlift Monêtier
Le Bachas view north
Le Bachas view north
Towards Pas de l'Ane
Towards Pas de l'Ane
Towards Pas de l'Ane
Pas de l'Ane in sight
Landscape west of Pas de l'Ane
Landscape west of Pas de l'Ane
Monetier Pas de l'Ane hike track
Monetier Pas de l'Ane hike track

Distance: 4 km 

Climb: 340 m

Duration: 2h


Day 2: Serre Chevalier



The long chairlift named Casse du Boeuf runs from the village of Villeneuve (1400 m) to about 2300 m. We paid 10,10€ p.p. for the ride (same as Bachas). We were in the middle of paths, tracks, ski lifts and of course mountain bike trails. The mountain peak of Serre Chevalier was still a bit above us in the south. We followed a trail which circled under its southern flank to Col de Serre Chevalier (2383 m), then forked left and climbed to the fairly crowded summit, where we could again admire the glaciers in the west and Mount Chaberton on the Italian border, still with fresh snow after the previous night’s storm.


We descended to the restaurant near our chair lift for lunch, then used the long and beautiful forest trail via Clot de l’Aravet and Goudissard (well signposted) back to Villeneuve.


View west from Serre Chevalier
View west from Serre Chevalier
Glacier near Serre Chevalier
Glacier near Serre Chevalier
Mount Chaberton viewed from Serre Chevalier
Mount Chaberton viewed from Serre Chevalier


Serre Chevalier Villeneuve hike



Distance: 11,6 km

Climb: 270 m

Descent: 1130 m

Duration: 4h 45