The following leisurely hike from Col de Bleine (1439 m) above Thorenc
offers good tranquil trails, no livestock with guarding dogs, great
views and an easy access to the starting point.
We are in the Côte d’Azur Prealps above Grasse.
It took us about 1h 20 to reach the mountain pass from Nice. Our goal was
Pic de l’Aiglo (1648 m on the signpost, 1644 m on the map) on the long ridge of Montagne de
Thorenc.
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| Col de Bleine |
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Leaving Col de Bleine
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Haut-Esteron peaks seen from trail
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Fôret Domaniale de Bleine
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From the col (signpost # 104), we headed east along a track to signpost #105
where we forked right and continued ascending along a good trail in the
woods. We were soon on the mountain ridge but only after 30 min or so we
were able to admire the scenery to the south. We descended a bit, and
reached a col where a 30m3 underground water reservoir had been built. We
continued to the east and soon reached Pic de l’Aiglo where we had 360°
views, including the still snow-capped peaks in the north.
This kind of fresh greenery cannot be experienced but for a few weeks
in the spring. During our picnic at the summit, a lone golden eagle soared
high above us.
We descended back to the first mountain pass with the reservoir, and
followed the dirt trac on the northern side of the forested mountain ridge
before we merged with our ascending trail.
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Thorenc mountain ridge
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Thorenc seen from trail
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Thorenc ridge water reservoir
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Approaching Pic de l'Aiglo
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Pic de l'Aiglo view east
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Climb: 270 m
Distance 5,9 km
Duration: 2 h active
Map:3542 ET Haut Estéron Préalpes de Grasse
There is some pistachio production in Provençe but the pistachios in our organic shop in Nice have all been imported, mostly from Spain.
The recipe is inspired by Télé-Matin, the French morning TV.
2 servings
2 organic chicken breasts, without skin
1 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. Dijon mustard
½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette
2 tbsp. chopped pistachios
2 tbsp. bread crumbs
For the sauce:
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tbsp. olive oil
A pinch of Piment d’Espelette
1(à ml white wine
1 tbsp. crème fraîche 15% fat
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Stir together the olive oil, Dijon mustard, and Piment d’Espelette. Brush the chicken breasts on both sides with the mixture.
Crush the pistachios into small crumbs. Mix with the bread crumbs and spread on a plate. Coat the chicken breasts in the mixture. Roast in 200° C for 25 minutes.
Meanwhile make the sauce. Sauté the shallot and garlic in olive oil for 5- 10 minutes. Pour in the white wine and add the Piment D’Espelette. Raise the heat and let the sauce bubble until reduced by about half. Just before serving, whisk in the crème fraiche.
When the chicken breasts are cooked, place them on a cutting board and slice. Divide on the plates and pour over the sauce.
Serve with black rice and some greens like wilted spinach or steamed broccoli for a colourful combination.
Mont Agaisen (751 m) overlooking Sospel (350 m) in the Bévéra
River Valley is one of the many summits in the region with Maginot Line
fortifications. Towards the end of WWII, the Wehrmacht occupied Sospel and the
surrounding mountaintops including Agaisen. After heavy fighting, Sospel was
liberated in late October 1944.
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Bévéra River Sospel
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| Sospel |
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GR52 north of Sospel
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Mont Agaisen western flank
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Today, Mont Agaisen has excellent hiking trails. The summit is a
take-off point for paragliders, and the fortifications have guided visits in
summer.
We started from the town centre/townhall on a busy market day and crossed
the Bévéra River, then used stairs to signpost #72 near the local school.
From here, we headed north along the GR52 trail, first along a paved road
then along good trails on the western flank of the mountain. We reached a
paved toad before signpost #75 where we left the GR52, forked sharply right
and followed a yellow-marked trail in the woods. We walked past signpost #84
to #83 at Col de l’Agaisen (666 m). We took a detour to the summit with
super views down to the Bévéra Valley, parts of Sospel and the surrounding
peaks.
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North of Mont Agaisen #84
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Soon after signpost#84
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View to south Mont Agaisen
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View to north Mont Agaisen
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After a break we returned to Col de l’Agaisen, forked right (east) along the
GR52A which circled the mountain. Once on the southern flank, the descent
gradually steepened but the trail mostly remained nice and soft. We crossed a
paved road a few times, and passed the first houses before reaching signpost
#81 by Chemin du Vier, not far from #72.
Climb: 420 m
Distance: 8,5 km
Duration: 3h 15
Map: 3741 ET Vallées de la Bévéra et des Paillons
Pork tenderloin and carrots always go very well together. To get more of those important antioxidants from food, try to find carrots in different colours; yellow and very dark compliment nicely regular carrots. Here in France, those carrots are called carottes à l’anciennes, meaning that in the old times there was much more variety in our vegetables.
Any leftovers from the pork can be used next day in a salad.
2 servings
1 pork tenderloin, about 500- 600 g
About 6 carrots in different colours
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs
½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette
For the sauce:
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tbsp. olive oil
A pinch of Piment d’Espelette
150 ml white wine
1 tsp. tomato paste
2 tsp. balsamic vinegar
Fresh parsley to decorate
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Wash the carrots and cut them into nice sticks, about 5 cm long and not too thin. Place the pork in a large oven-proof dish and the carrot sticks around it. Sprinkle with the Provençal herbs, Piment d’Espelette, and olive oil. Roast 45 minutes in 200° C. Cover if it gets too dark.
Meanwhile make the sauce. Sauté the shallot and garlic in olive oil over medium heat for 5- 10 minutes. Add the wine, Piment d’Espelette, tomato paste, and vinegar. Stir and let cook until reduced by half.
When the pork is cooked and the carrots are soft remove the roast from the oven. Slice the pork and divide on the plates. Divide the sauce over the slices and the carrots on the side. Decorate with chopped parsley.
We had previously hiked to Colla Bassa (888 m) from Levens. While
exploring new itineraries in this region, we wanted to try a loop starting
from the hamlet of Ste-Claire (512 m) by the M19 road south of Levens.
There’s a decent parking at Place Antoine Icart.
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GR5 south of Ste-Claire
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Mont Lion seen from trail
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Above Plan de Couthon
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The GR 5 trail runs next to Ste-Claire, and we followed it to the
south, initially along a paved road, then a dirt track to
Colla Partida (565 m; signpost #290). From the trail, we had nice
views to the west, St-Blaise village etc. Colla Partida is a crossroads of
several trails. We left the GR 5, forked left and descended rapidly to Plan de
Couthon (427 m) by the M19 road. We crossed the road carefully to signpost
#823 (title picture above) and began the long ascent to Colla Bassa. We hiked
past signpost #815 then #219 (image below) after which we temporarily took the
wrong trail in Ravin des Balmettes where the overgrown wet trail soon vanished
and we returned to #219. The correct trail turned sharply left, uphill just 20
m after the signpost.
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Left turn after 20m!
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| Spring signs |
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| Colla Bassa 30min! |
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Levens and Mont Vial
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| Mont Cima |
The rest of the ascent was uneventful. We took a well-deserved break at
Colla Bassa (signpost #218). The main view was to the northeast with
the still snow-capped Mercantour Range in the horizon. The best views to the
coast and to the west were from the trail just before Colla Bassa.
We continued to the northwest. After a brief ascent and passing the
crossroads to Col de Rosa, we descended to Col de Travail (760
m; signpost #281), a clearing with some ruined houses. From here, we first
followed a dirt track about 200 m and at signpost #282 we forked left to
Ste-Claire and descended rapidly back to the hamlet.
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| Colla Bassa |
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| Col de Travail |
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Rapid descent to Ste-Claire
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| Ste-Claire |
Climb: 600 m
Distance: 11,5 km
Duration: 4h 30 active
Map: 3742 OT Nice Menton Côte d’Azur
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Three cols loop hike
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This is a simple and comforting dish, perfect to make in winter after hiking in hills or forests. It is quick to make from frozen spinach.
2 servings
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 handfuls of frozen spinach, defrosted
100 ml white wine
1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs
Freshly ground black pepper
About 120 g Parma ham
A generous amount of parmesan shavings
Whole wheat tagliatelle for 2 servings
In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for 10 minutes until soft. Add the defrosted spinach, white wine, herbs, and black pepper and stir. Let simmer.
Meanwhile cook the tagliatelle according to the advice on the package. Drain the pasta and add to the sauté pan. Stir until the pasta is nicely coated with oil and spinach.
Divide the tagliatelle on the lates. Fold in the Parma ham slices and top with parmesan shavings.
We have used the village of Castellar north of Menton as a starting point for many hikes, such as the Mont Carpano loop.
This time we wanted to start from Menton along the GR 52 trail, then back along a trail beginning in the Vallon de l’Orméa. We had marked the waypoints on our last hike.
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| Start from Menton |
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| GR52 start in Menton |
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| Menton seen from trail |
We parked in Menton-Garavan and headed to the Garavan railway station, and found the first signpost of today’s itinerary behind the station. However, the numbers on the rather new posts were different from those on our map (Nr 1 was 420 on the map etc). The white/red markings were frequent and easy to follow as we first ascended along stairs and narrow streets. We walked under the A8 motorway, and after a short stretch along roads, we were on the rocky and rather steep trail to Granges St-Paul.
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| GR52 still in Menton |
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| GR52 now more sauvage |
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| GR52 higher above Menton |
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| Near Granges Saint-Paul |
We reached a dirt road named Piste des Granges St-Paul and forked left heading northwest towards Castellar. The GR 52 continued straight to Plan de Lion. After about 2 km we came to the outskirts of Castellar. At signpost #414 (Menton par Balmetta et le Baousset) we forked left and soon entered a delightful path in a verdant valley. Now yellow-marked, the descent became steeper as we approached the A8. Pay close attention here to the markings as the trail exited a road and dove into a pedestrian tunnel under the motorway.
We came to the upper neighbourhoods of Menton, and passed a pony club. There were no markings anymore, but the direction was evident. Passing several beautiful villas with panoramic views, we walked past the cemetery before reaching the old town.
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| Signpost#414 return trail |
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| Return trail to Menton |
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| Menton Garavan |
Climb: 510 m
Distance: 10,4 km
Duration: 3h 45 active time
Map: Nice Menton Côte d’Azur 3742 OT
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