Mont Agaisen (751 m) overlooking Sospel (350 m) in the Bévéra
River Valley is one of the many summits in the region with Maginot Line
fortifications. Towards the end of WWII, the Wehrmacht occupied Sospel and the
surrounding mountaintops including Agaisen. After heavy fighting, Sospel was
liberated in late October 1944.
|
|
Bévéra River Sospel
|
|
| Sospel |
|
|
GR52 north of Sospel
|
|
|
Mont Agaisen western flank
|
Today, Mont Agaisen has excellent hiking trails. The summit is a
take-off point for paragliders, and the fortifications have guided visits in
summer.
We started from the town centre/townhall on a busy market day and crossed
the Bévéra River, then used stairs to signpost #72 near the local school.
From here, we headed north along the GR52 trail, first along a paved road
then along good trails on the western flank of the mountain. We reached a
paved toad before signpost #75 where we left the GR52, forked sharply right
and followed a yellow-marked trail in the woods. We walked past signpost #84
to #83 at Col de l’Agaisen (666 m). We took a detour to the summit with
super views down to the Bévéra Valley, parts of Sospel and the surrounding
peaks.
|
|
North of Mont Agaisen #84
|
|
|
Soon after signpost#84
|
|
|
View to south Mont Agaisen
|
|
|
View to north Mont Agaisen
|
After a break we returned to Col de l’Agaisen, forked right (east) along the
GR52A which circled the mountain. Once on the southern flank, the descent
gradually steepened but the trail mostly remained nice and soft. We crossed a
paved road a few times, and passed the first houses before reaching signpost
#81 by Chemin du Vier, not far from #72.
Climb: 420 m
Distance: 8,5 km
Duration: 3h 15
Map: 3741 ET Vallées de la Bévéra et des Paillons
Pork tenderloin and carrots always go very well together. To get more of those important antioxidants from food, try to find carrots in different colours; yellow and very dark compliment nicely regular carrots. Here in France, those carrots are called carottes à l’anciennes, meaning that in the old times there was much more variety in our vegetables.
Any leftovers from the pork can be used next day in a salad.
2 servings
1 pork tenderloin, about 500- 600 g
About 6 carrots in different colours
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs
½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette
For the sauce:
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tbsp. olive oil
A pinch of Piment d’Espelette
150 ml white wine
1 tsp. tomato paste
2 tsp. balsamic vinegar
Fresh parsley to decorate
Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.
Wash the carrots and cut them into nice sticks, about 5 cm long and not too thin. Place the pork in a large oven-proof dish and the carrot sticks around it. Sprinkle with the Provençal herbs, Piment d’Espelette, and olive oil. Roast 45 minutes in 200° C. Cover if it gets too dark.
Meanwhile make the sauce. Sauté the shallot and garlic in olive oil over medium heat for 5- 10 minutes. Add the wine, Piment d’Espelette, tomato paste, and vinegar. Stir and let cook until reduced by half.
When the pork is cooked and the carrots are soft remove the roast from the oven. Slice the pork and divide on the plates. Divide the sauce over the slices and the carrots on the side. Decorate with chopped parsley.
We had previously hiked to Colla Bassa (888 m) from Levens. While
exploring new itineraries in this region, we wanted to try a loop starting
from the hamlet of Ste-Claire (512 m) by the M19 road south of Levens.
There’s a decent parking at Place Antoine Icart.
|
|
GR5 south of Ste-Claire
|
|
|
Mont Lion seen from trail
|
|
|
Above Plan de Couthon
|
The GR 5 trail runs next to Ste-Claire, and we followed it to the
south, initially along a paved road, then a dirt track to
Colla Partida (565 m; signpost #290). From the trail, we had nice
views to the west, St-Blaise village etc. Colla Partida is a crossroads of
several trails. We left the GR 5, forked left and descended rapidly to Plan de
Couthon (427 m) by the M19 road. We crossed the road carefully to signpost
#823 (title picture above) and began the long ascent to Colla Bassa. We hiked
past signpost #815 then #219 (image below) after which we temporarily took the
wrong trail in Ravin des Balmettes where the overgrown wet trail soon vanished
and we returned to #219. The correct trail turned sharply left, uphill just 20
m after the signpost.
|
|
Left turn after 20m!
|
|
| Spring signs |
|
| Colla Bassa 30min! |
|
|
Levens and Mont Vial
|
|
| Mont Cima |
The rest of the ascent was uneventful. We took a well-deserved break at
Colla Bassa (signpost #218). The main view was to the northeast with
the still snow-capped Mercantour Range in the horizon. The best views to the
coast and to the west were from the trail just before Colla Bassa.
We continued to the northwest. After a brief ascent and passing the
crossroads to Col de Rosa, we descended to Col de Travail (760
m; signpost #281), a clearing with some ruined houses. From here, we first
followed a dirt track about 200 m and at signpost #282 we forked left to
Ste-Claire and descended rapidly back to the hamlet.
|
| Colla Bassa |
|
| Col de Travail |
|
|
Rapid descent to Ste-Claire
|
|
| Ste-Claire |
Climb: 600 m
Distance: 11,5 km
Duration: 4h 30 active
Map: 3742 OT Nice Menton Côte d’Azur
|
|
Three cols loop hike
|
This is a simple and comforting dish, perfect to make in winter after hiking in hills or forests. It is quick to make from frozen spinach.
2 servings
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 handfuls of frozen spinach, defrosted
100 ml white wine
1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs
Freshly ground black pepper
About 120 g Parma ham
A generous amount of parmesan shavings
Whole wheat tagliatelle for 2 servings
In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for 10 minutes until soft. Add the defrosted spinach, white wine, herbs, and black pepper and stir. Let simmer.
Meanwhile cook the tagliatelle according to the advice on the package. Drain the pasta and add to the sauté pan. Stir until the pasta is nicely coated with oil and spinach.
Divide the tagliatelle on the lates. Fold in the Parma ham slices and top with parmesan shavings.
We have used the village of Castellar north of Menton as a starting point for many hikes, such as the Mont Carpano loop.
This time we wanted to start from Menton along the GR 52 trail, then back along a trail beginning in the Vallon de l’Orméa. We had marked the waypoints on our last hike.
 |
| Start from Menton |
 |
| GR52 start in Menton |
 |
| Menton seen from trail |
We parked in Menton-Garavan and headed to the Garavan railway station, and found the first signpost of today’s itinerary behind the station. However, the numbers on the rather new posts were different from those on our map (Nr 1 was 420 on the map etc). The white/red markings were frequent and easy to follow as we first ascended along stairs and narrow streets. We walked under the A8 motorway, and after a short stretch along roads, we were on the rocky and rather steep trail to Granges St-Paul.
 |
| GR52 still in Menton |
 |
| GR52 now more sauvage |
 |
| GR52 higher above Menton |
 |
| Near Granges Saint-Paul |
We reached a dirt road named Piste des Granges St-Paul and forked left heading northwest towards Castellar. The GR 52 continued straight to Plan de Lion. After about 2 km we came to the outskirts of Castellar. At signpost #414 (Menton par Balmetta et le Baousset) we forked left and soon entered a delightful path in a verdant valley. Now yellow-marked, the descent became steeper as we approached the A8. Pay close attention here to the markings as the trail exited a road and dove into a pedestrian tunnel under the motorway.
We came to the upper neighbourhoods of Menton, and passed a pony club. There were no markings anymore, but the direction was evident. Passing several beautiful villas with panoramic views, we walked past the cemetery before reaching the old town.
 |
| Signpost#414 return trail |
 |
| Return trail to Menton |
 |
| Menton Garavan |
Climb: 510 m
Distance: 10,4 km
Duration: 3h 45 active time
Map: Nice Menton Côte d’Azur 3742 OT
This tasty lactovegetarian dish is often served as mezze, apéro in Eastern Mediterranean countries. It can also be served as a simple supper if supplemented by some good country bread, a green side salad, and perhaps some feta or goat cheese.
I have replaced the typical Eastern Mediterranean herbs and spices with herbes de Provençe and Piment d’Espelette.
2 servings
About 250 g cherry tomatoes
About 250 g white beans in a glass jar
3 tbsp. olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp. Herbes de Provençe
½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette
100 ml white wine
2 tbsp. black olives
To serve:
4 tbsp. fromage blanc 0% fat or thick Greek yoghurt
Basil leaves
Preheat the oven to 190°C, roast
Rinse the cherry tomatoes. Spread 1 tbsp. olive oil in the bottom of an oven-proof sauté pan. Add the cherry tomatoes and mix until well coated with olive oil. Roast for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large thick- bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic for 10- 12 minutes.
Deglaze with white wine and let reduce a few minutes. Add the Provençal herbs and Piment d’Espelette.
Rinse the white beans under running water and add to the saucepan. When the cherry tomatoes are well collapsed and a bit coloured, add them to the saucepan and mix.
Spread the fromage blanc or yoghurt on the sides of 2 bowls. Divide he cherry tomato mixture in the centre and decorate with basil leaves.
In one of our early blogposts, we
described a loop hike from Èze Village to Fort de la Revère.
As the village attracts a lot of visitors, a large underground parking was
recently opened after years of construction.
We planned to redo the hike to the fort combined with a loop in la Simboula.
The village was already bustling with tourists on a sunny autumn weekend but
we had no problems in finding a spot in the new parking house.
|
|
Ascending above Èze
|
|
|
Trail above Èze Village
|
|
|
Break near fort de la Revère
|
|
| Viewing Cap Ferrat |
We walked along the Moyenne Corniche a few hundred meters to signpost #645
where we forked left, passing several houses and signposts #646 and #647.
Climbing quite steeply in places, we crossed the Grande Corniche at
signpost #648.
We came to a crossroads at signpost #650 where we forked right and soon
came to the paved road (#651) south of the fortress. La Maison de la
Nature was opposite us. You never get tired of the panorama from
here!
After a break we headed east along the ex-military track with which
followed the precipitous southern flank of la Simboula.
At a crossroads about 1 km from Maison de la Nature we forked left. There
were new signposts showing nature trail options in the woods. We chose the
one to la Simboula where we climbed to the small observation tower with a
map.
The new nature trails turned out to be pleasant and easy to follow, and
child-friendly. Families with small children can drive up to the parking
west of the fortress (Parking du fort de la Revère).
|
|
Entering tunnel in la Simboula
|
|
|
La Simboula military tunnel
|
|
|
Route de la Simboula
|
|
|
La Simboula viewing tower
|
|
|
Viewing la Tête du Chien
|
|
| Returning to Èze |
We descended back to signpost #650 where we forked right, crossed the Grande
Corniche (signpost #653) and followed a steep paved road with beautiful
residences then a rocky trail before reaching narrow streets just before
Èze.
Climb: 420 m
Distance: 6,3 km
Duration: 2h 40
Map: 3742 OT “Nice-Menton” Côte d’Azur
|
|
Èze la Simboula hike track
|
Posts
