St-Blaise to Foun Morta above Levens

 

St-Antoine Chapel


Having hiked from the picturesque village of St-Blaise to Mont Cima a few years ago, we came across the idea to explore the trail north of the village towards Levens. Trails here are numerous and many of them are not even marked or signposted.

It was spring in Nice hinterland, only 15 km or so from Promenade des Anglais as the crow flies. 


Descending from St-Blaise
Descending from St-Blaise
Crossing St-Blaise Valley
Crossing St-Blaise Valley
Climbing to St-Antoine
Climbing to St-Antoine
Trail above St-Antoine
Trail above St-Antoine

From St-Blaise (~300 m) we descended along the streets passing a school to signpost #289. From here, we descended further in a dense verdant wood down to the St-Blaise Valley and crossed a stream along  an old narrow stone bridge. The following ascent to the hamlet of St-Antoine was equally rather steep but the trail was mostly good. We reached Chapelle St-Antoine de Siga near signpost #288, and continued the ascent behind the chapel, passing some curious gouts. Yellow markings were sporadic. In places, we continued very near the houses some of which looked like secondary residences.

We reached the paved Chemin du Pestrier and forked right as shown on the map. After about 400 m, after a bend, we located the trail  and headed northwest towards Ste-Petronille. There we briefly merged with a road again, walked past some nice properties and were guided by signpost #287 to the northeast. After about 300 m we came to an intersection where we forked left along an unmarked but good trail. Now heading north then northwest we climbed steadily in a pine wood and eventually started to see the Var River Valley before reaching a hill named Foun Morta (610 m) on maps. In spite of its rather modest elevation, we had great views from the hilltop.




Mont Cima seen from St-Antoine
Mont Cima seen from St-Antoine
Var River Valley seen from trail
Var River Valley seen from trail
Foun Morta view northwest
Foun Morta view northwest
Mercantour peaks seen from Foun Morta
Mercantour peaks seen from Foun Morta
Leaving Foun Morta
Leaving Foun Morta
Briefly joining the GR5 trail
Briefly joining the GR5 trail

On the way back, we headed east along a wide track and briefly merged with the GR5 trail and descended rapidly to signpost #285. There we forked right and headed back towards St-Blaise, following the itinerary used in the morning.

Distance: 8 km

Climb: 500 m

Duration: 3h 30

Map: 3742 OT Nice Menton Côte d’Azur


St-Blaise to Foun Morta track


Smoked salmon and cabbage-mayonnaise on toast

Smoked salmon and cabbage-mayonnaise on toast

 


This recipe is inspired by Bonjour, the morning TV of TF 1. A young chef made a simple but tasty lunch from Perigord’s best ingredients: hazelnut oil and smoked sturgeon. Perigord has some sturgeon farming but fishing wild sturgeon is forbidden. I have never seen smoked sturgeon in our shops in Nice, probably it goes straight to Paris gourmet restaurants, so I used smoked Alaska wild salmon instead.

The chef made mayonnaise from scratch by whipping together by hand organic egg yolk and Dijon mustard in equal amounts. Hazelnut oil was slowly poured, while whipping all the time, into a nice consistence. 

2 servings

4 slices whole wheat toast

4 slices smoked Alaska salmon

About a handful of grated white cabbage

For the mayonnaise:

1 organic egg yolk

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

Hazelnut oil, huile de noix


Toast the bread slices. Grate the cabbage. 


Make the mayonnaise. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolk and  mustard. Continue whisking while slowly pouring in the oil into a nice consistence. Turn the grated cabbage in the mayonnaise.


Divide the cabbage- mayonnaise on the toast slices and place the salmon slices on top. Serve some green salad on the side.


Thorenc: Col de Bleine to Pic de l'Aiglo

 

Pic de l'Aiglo


The following leisurely hike from Col de Bleine (1439 m) above Thorenc offers good tranquil trails, no livestock with guarding dogs,  great views and an easy access to the starting point.

We are in the Côte d’Azur Prealps above Grasse.

It took us about 1h 20 to reach the mountain pass from Nice. Our goal was Pic de l’Aiglo (1648 m on the signpost, 1644 m on the map) on the long ridge of Montagne de  Thorenc.

Col de Bleine
Col de Bleine
Leaving Col de Bleine
Leaving Col de Bleine
Haut-Esteron peaks seen from trail
Haut-Esteron peaks seen from trail
Fôret Domaniale de Bleine
Fôret Domaniale de Bleine

From the col (signpost # 104), we headed east along a track to signpost #105 where we forked right and continued ascending along a good trail in the woods. We were soon on the mountain ridge but only after 30 min or so we were able to admire the scenery to the south. We descended a bit, and reached a col where a 30m3 underground water reservoir had been built. We continued to the east and soon reached Pic de l’Aiglo where we had 360° views, including the still snow-capped peaks in the north.

This kind of fresh greenery cannot be experienced  but for a few weeks in the spring. During our picnic at the summit, a lone golden eagle soared high above us.

We descended back to the first mountain pass with the reservoir, and followed the dirt trac on the northern side of the forested mountain ridge before we merged with our ascending trail.


Thorenc mountain ridge
Thorenc mountain ridge
Thorenc seen from trail
Thorenc seen from trail
Thorenc ridge water reservoir
Thorenc ridge water reservoir
Approaching Pic de l'Aiglo
Approaching Pic de l'Aiglo
Pic de l'Aiglo view east
Pic de l'Aiglo view east

Climb: 270 m
Distance 5,9 km
Duration: 2 h active
Map:3542 ET Haut Estéron Préalpes de Grasse


Pic de l'Aiglo hike track


Pistachio-crusted chicken breasts

 

Pistachio-crusted chicken breasts



There is some pistachio production in Provençe but the pistachios in our organic shop in Nice have all been imported, mostly from Spain.

The recipe is inspired by Télé-Matin, the French morning TV.

2 servings

2 organic chicken breasts, without skin

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette

2 tbsp. chopped pistachios

2 tbsp. bread crumbs

For the sauce:

1 small shallot, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp. olive oil

A pinch of Piment d’Espelette

1(à ml white wine

1 tbsp. crème fraîche 15% fat


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


Stir together the olive oil, Dijon mustard, and Piment d’Espelette. Brush the chicken breasts on both sides with the mixture.


Crush the pistachios into small crumbs. Mix with the bread crumbs and spread on a plate. Coat the chicken breasts in the mixture. Roast in 200° C for 25 minutes.


Meanwhile make the sauce. Sauté the shallot and garlic in olive oil for 5- 10 minutes. Pour in the white wine and add the Piment D’Espelette. Raise the heat and let the sauce bubble until reduced by about half. Just before serving, whisk in the crème fraiche.


When the chicken breasts are cooked, place them on a cutting board and slice. Divide on the plates and pour over the sauce.


Serve with black rice and some greens like wilted spinach or steamed broccoli for a colourful combination.


Sospel: Mont Agaisen loop hike

 

Sospel riverfront


Mont Agaisen (751 m) overlooking Sospel (350 m) in the Bévéra River Valley is one of the many summits in the region with Maginot Line fortifications. Towards the end of WWII, the Wehrmacht occupied Sospel and the surrounding mountaintops including Agaisen. After heavy fighting, Sospel was liberated in late October 1944.

Bévéra River Sospel
Bévéra River Sospel
Sospel
Sospel
GR52 north of Sospel
GR52 north of Sospel
Mont Agaisen western flank
Mont Agaisen western flank

Today, Mont Agaisen has excellent hiking trails.  The summit is a take-off point for paragliders, and the fortifications have guided visits in summer.

We started from the town centre/townhall on a busy market day and crossed the Bévéra River, then used stairs to signpost #72 near the local school. From here, we headed north along the GR52 trail, first along a paved road then along good trails on the western flank of the mountain. We reached a paved toad before signpost #75 where we left the GR52, forked sharply right and followed a yellow-marked trail in the woods. We walked past signpost #84 to #83 at Col de l’Agaisen (666 m). We took a detour to the summit with super views down to the Bévéra Valley, parts of Sospel and the surrounding peaks.


North of Mont Agaisen #84
North of Mont Agaisen #84
Soon after signpost#84
Soon after signpost#84
View to south Mont Agaisen
View to south Mont Agaisen
View to north Mont Agaisen
View to north Mont Agaisen

After a break we returned to Col de l’Agaisen, forked right (east) along the GR52A which circled the mountain. Once on the southern flank, the descent gradually steepened but the trail mostly remained nice and soft. We crossed a paved road a few times, and passed the first houses before reaching signpost #81 by Chemin du Vier, not far from #72.


Climb: 420 m
Distance: 8,5 km
Duration: 3h 15
Map: 3741 ET Vallées de la Bévéra et des Paillons

Simplified map of trail

Mont Agaisen loop track


Roasted pork tenderloin with carrots

 

Roasted pork tenderloin with carrots

Pork tenderloin and carrots always go very well together. To get more of those important antioxidants from food, try to find carrots in different  colours; yellow and very dark compliment nicely regular carrots. Here in France, those carrots are called carottes à l’anciennes, meaning that in the old times there was much more variety in our vegetables.

Any leftovers from the pork can be used next day in a salad.

2 servings

1 pork tenderloin, about 500- 600 g

About 6 carrots in different colours

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

½ tsp. Piment d’Espelette

For the sauce:

1 shallot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp. olive oil

A pinch of Piment d’Espelette

150 ml white wine

1 tsp. tomato paste

2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

Fresh parsley to decorate


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


Wash the carrots and cut them into nice sticks, about 5 cm long and not too thin. Place the pork in a large oven-proof dish and the carrot sticks around it. Sprinkle with the Provençal herbs, Piment d’Espelette, and olive oil. Roast 45 minutes in 200° C. Cover if it gets too dark.


Meanwhile make the sauce. Sauté the shallot and garlic in olive oil over medium heat for 5- 10 minutes. Add the wine, Piment d’Espelette, tomato paste, and vinegar. Stir and let cook until reduced by half.


When the pork is cooked and the carrots are soft remove the roast from the oven. Slice the pork and divide on the plates. Divide the sauce over the slices and the carrots on the side. Decorate with chopped parsley.


Three mountain passes from Ste-Claire (Levens)

 

Climb to Colla Bassa begins


We had previously hiked to Colla Bassa (888 m) from Levens. While exploring new itineraries in this region, we wanted to try a loop starting from the hamlet of Ste-Claire (512 m) by the M19 road south of Levens. There’s a decent parking at Place Antoine Icart. 

GR5 south of Ste-Claire
GR5 south of Ste-Claire
Mont Lion seen from trail
Mont Lion seen from trail
Above Plan de Couthon
Above Plan de Couthon

The GR 5 trail runs next to Ste-Claire, and we followed it to the south, initially along a paved road, then a dirt track to Colla Partida (565 m; signpost  #290). From the trail, we had nice views to the west, St-Blaise village etc. Colla Partida is a crossroads of several trails. We left the GR 5, forked left and descended rapidly to Plan de Couthon (427 m) by the M19 road. We crossed the road carefully to signpost #823 (title picture above) and began the long ascent to Colla Bassa. We hiked past signpost #815 then #219 (image below) after which we temporarily took the wrong trail in Ravin des Balmettes where the overgrown wet trail soon vanished and we returned to #219. The correct trail turned sharply left, uphill just 20 m after the signpost.


Left turn after 20m!
Left turn after 20m!
Spring signs
Spring signs
Colla Bassa 30min!
Colla Bassa 30min!
Levens and Mont Vial
Levens and Mont Vial
Mont Cima
Mont Cima

The rest of the ascent was uneventful. We took a well-deserved break at Colla Bassa (signpost #218). The  main view was to the northeast with the still snow-capped Mercantour Range in the horizon. The best views to the coast and to the west were from the trail just before Colla Bassa.

We continued to the northwest. After a brief ascent and passing the crossroads to Col de Rosa, we descended to  Col de Travail (760 m; signpost #281), a clearing with some ruined houses. From here, we first followed a dirt track about 200 m and at signpost #282 we forked left to Ste-Claire and descended rapidly back to the hamlet.


Colla Bassa
Colla Bassa
Col de Travail
Col de Travail
Rapid descent to Ste-Claire
Rapid descent to Ste-Claire
Ste-Claire
Ste-Claire

Climb: 600 m
Distance: 11,5 km
Duration: 4h 30 active
Map: 3742 OT Nice Menton Côte d’Azur

3 cols hike simplified map

Three cols loop hike
Three cols loop hike