Queyras: Sommet Bucher

Sommet Bucher view southeast
Sommet Bucher view southeast

Situated between Château-Queyras and Molines-en-Queyras, the mountain top of Sommet Bucher (2254 m) is surrounded by forests and pasture areas. A road near the summit was built already in 1892 when it was considered an important military observation point. Due to easy access, it has become a popular hiking area in the Queyras Regional Nature Park.


We used the village of la Chalp of St-Véran (1768 m) as our starting point. La Chalp is located by the D5 road, some three km from St-Véran.


Sommet Bucher seen from east
Sommet Bucher seen from east
La Chalp St-Véran
La Chalp St-Véran
Steep trail above la Chalp
Steep trail above la Chalp
Easy part of GRP trail from la Chalp
Easy part of GRP trail from la Chalp
GRP trail near Chapelle St-Simon
GRP trail near Chapelle St-Simon

We ascended along the GRP* trail (yellow-red) named GRP Tour de la Dent de la Ratier, heading northwest. In the beginning, the incline was steep. We reached about 2200 m where the trail levelled off. We passed pasture areas with livestock, Lac des Clots and the Chapel St-Simon. After a short descent we came to Col des Prés de Fromage (2146 m), and a crossroads of several trails.


We left the GRP trail and headed straight north to the summit of Bucher along a yellow-marked trail. There were many parallel paths in the woods. There was a stone hut on the summit with orientation tables on both sides. Some treetops prevented a full 360° panorama, but the views were nevertheless excellent.


Pasture area near Chapelle St-Simon
Pasture area near Chapelle St-Simon
Chapelle St-Simon
Chapelle St-Simon
View to west Col des Prés de Fromage
View west Col des Prés de Fromage
Sommet Bucher
Sommet Bucher
Moline en Queyras
Moline en Queyras

We used another trail for the short descent back to Col de Prés Fromage, then forked left (Molines par la Seiche) and descended in the forest via Clot Henri (a clearing with a renovated shepherd’s hut), reaching soon a wide gravel track. At la Seiche, there was a short but steep rocky stretch. We came to l’Aguie Agnelle stream, crossed a wooden bridge then forked right towards la Chalp. The trail first followed the stream, then ran next to the D5 for a few hundred meters, and before la Chalp continued in a meadow.

It turned out to be a great loop hike in beautiful mid-altitude surroundings. The return itinerary straight down to the valley then upstream back to la Chalp might be considered less interesting by some but enabled a loop hike. The other option is to hike back along the same trail.


Distance: 13 km 


Climb: 660 m


Duration: 5 h


Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran.Aguilles; PNR du Queyras


*) Grande Randonnée de Pays, a regional trail, often a loop and shorter than a GR trail.


Sommet Bucher hike trail
Sommet Bucher hike trail



Winter salad à la Salo

Winter salad à la Salo


This recipe is inspired by a first course we had in a restaurant in Salo, Finland one snowy winter evening. The combination of roasted winter squash cubes, rocket salad leaves, and crumbled feta cheese was very tasty.

With some good wholegrain bread, you can serve the salad for a light and anti-oxidant rich lunch. A smaller portion makes a nice first course.

2 servings for lunch

2 handfuls of winter squash cubes

1 small onion, sliced

1 clove garlic, minced

Olive oil

3 handfuls of rocket salad leaves

A handful of crumbled feta

2 tbsp. olive oil vinaigrette


Preheat the oven to 210°C, roast.


Place 2 tbsp. olive oil in a plastic bag. Add the winter squash cubes, onion slices, and minced garlic. Shake well and pour into an oven- proof dish in one layer. Roast for 25- 30 minutes until the vegetables are soft and have got some colour. Set aside.


Divide the salad on the plates. Add the roasted vegetables and top with crumbled feta. Sprinkle with olive oil vinaigrette.



Saint-Véran: Col des Estronques

 

View southeast from Col des Estronques
View southeast from Col des Estronques


The 130 km* long GR58 (Tour de Queyras) long distance hiking trail connects St-Véran (2040 m) and Ceillac (1640 m) in the Queyras Regional Nature Park.

The trail runs via the Col des Estronques Mountain pass (2651 m). Some years ago, we had to turn around just before the col when a fierce thunderstorm hit the area.

Crossing Torrent de Curlet
Crossing Torrent de Curlet
GR58 after Torrent de Curlet
GR58 after Torrent de Curlet
GR58 Bois du Moulin in background
GR58 Bois du Moulin in background

This time good weather was forecasted for the whole day, and we first descended along the GR58 from St-Véran to Pont du Moulin (1849 m), and crossed the l’Aguie Blanche torrent.


The continuous ascent started after the wooden bridge. We first followed a wide track, then a good path, and crossed the Torrent de Curlet. The incline became steeper. GR trails are very well marked (white-red) and this itinerary did not make an exception. We crossed another stream, and ascended a while in the woods before reaching beautiful Alpine meadow above the tree line. Our goal, Col des Estronques, was in sight. Some rocky stretches remained, nothing difficult or exposed. Apart from the rather short Alpine meadow, the trail was steep. 



Saint-Véran and Pic de Ch.Renard
Saint-Véran and Pic du Ch.Renard
Alpine meadow before Col des Estronques
Alpine meadow before Col des Estronques
GR58 near Col des Estronques
GR58 near col des Estronques
Col des Estronques
Col des Estronques

The day remained clear with just some cumulus clouds, and we could admire the mountain range south of Ceillac as well as the 3000+m peaks in the north, such as Grand Glaiza and Bric Froid.


A trail went up to Tête de Jacquette (2757 m), the nearest mountain top east of the col. 


We took the same trail back to St-Véran. Depending on where you stay, the ascent from Pont du Moulin is 150-200 m.


Climb: ~950 m (ascent back to St-Véran included)


Distance: 11 km

Duration: about 5 h active

Map: 3637 OT Mont Viso St-Véran. Aiguilles PNR du Queyras



Col des Estronques hike trail
Col des Estronques hike trail



Roasted chicken breasts coated with Dijon mustard and breadcrumbs

Roasted chicken breasts coated with Dijon mustard and breadcrumbs


The following recipe makes a quick and tasty dinner when you need the food fast on the plates after a long day in the mountains or elsewhere…Serve it with black or parboiled brown rice and some simple roasted vegetables like courgette wedges or tomato halves.

2 servings

2 chicken breasts

2 tbsp. breadcrumbs

2 tbsp. grated parmesan cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

A generous amount, about 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard

Olive oil


Preheat the oven to 200° C, roast.


Combine the breadcrumbs, parmesan cheese, and black pepper. Spread the mixture on a plate.


Spread the mustard on both sides of chicken breasts, then coat them with the breadcrumb mixture. Transfer the chicken breasts in an oiled oven- proof dish and sprinkle some olive oil on them. Roast for 25 minutes together with the vegetables.


Meanwhile cook the rice. Divide the chicken, vegetables, and rice on the plates and decorate with some fresh herbs.

Monêtier les Bains: Pas de l'Ane and Serre Chevalier

 

Pas de l'Ane Monetier
                            Pas de l'Ane above Monetier

In summer, some of the chairlifts in the Serre Chevalier area open, serving walkers, sightseers and mountain bikers.

Taking an advantage of them is a very good idea if thunderstorms are forecasted in the afternoon or if you simply prefer to do a shorter hike. But thanks to the vast network of trails, you can perfectly well start at over 2000 m elev. and still find long and strenuous itineraries if you wish.

Here’s what we did on the last two days of our stay:

Day 1: Pas de l’Ane (2494 m)

From Monétier les Bains (1500 m), we took the Bachas chair lift up to 2174 m. In winter, it is the westernmost part of the big Serre Chevalier ski resort. The GR54 runs past le Bachas. 

We followed the GR54 to the south, ascending a bit. It was basically a wide track. After about one km, we forked right, first following another gravel track, then a path. The scenery was surprisingly wild and the incline became steep before the col. The mountain pass too was narrow and steep. The nearest glaciers were less than 3 km away in the west.

We descended back to the Bachas chairlift, first along the same trail, then took a shortcut along some unofficial trails and meadows.

Bachas chairlift Monêtier
Bachas chairlift Monêtier
Le Bachas view north
Le Bachas view north
Towards Pas de l'Ane
Towards Pas de l'Ane
Towards Pas de l'Ane
Pas de l'Ane in sight
Landscape west of Pas de l'Ane
Landscape west of Pas de l'Ane
Monetier Pas de l'Ane hike track
Monetier Pas de l'Ane hike track

Distance: 4 km 

Climb: 340 m

Duration: 2h


Day 2: Serre Chevalier



The long chairlift named Casse du Boeuf runs from the village of Villeneuve (1400 m) to about 2300 m. We paid 10,10€ p.p. for the ride (same as Bachas). We were in the middle of paths, tracks, ski lifts and of course mountain bike trails. The mountain peak of Serre Chevalier was still a bit above us in the south. We followed a trail which circled under its southern flank to Col de Serre Chevalier (2383 m), then forked left and climbed to the fairly crowded summit, where we could again admire the glaciers in the west and Mount Chaberton on the Italian border, still with fresh snow after the previous night’s storm.


We descended to the restaurant near our chair lift for lunch, then used the long and beautiful forest trail via Clot de l’Aravet and Goudissard (well signposted) back to Villeneuve.


View west from Serre Chevalier
View west from Serre Chevalier
Glacier near Serre Chevalier
Glacier near Serre Chevalier
Mount Chaberton viewed from Serre Chevalier
Mount Chaberton viewed from Serre Chevalier


Serre Chevalier Villeneuve hike



Distance: 11,6 km

Climb: 270 m

Descent: 1130 m

Duration: 4h 45 


Pasta à la Savannah

Two servings pasta à la Savannah

 


Late one evening, we had a nice comforting pasta in an Italian Riverside restaurant in Savannah. We had been travelling all day and this warm and tasty dish was just what we needed. The pasta was grilled in individual oven- proof dishes until the cheese had melted and included a good mixture of vegetables: mushrooms, spinach, shallots, and garlic. It had quite a generous amount of cream sauce in the American style and the choice of two cheeses, parmesan and mozzarella, went well with the vegetables.

The following recipe is my twist of that pasta. I have omitted the cream and chosen wholewheat pasta for a healthier variation. Almost any pasta shapes work in this recipe except the long ones like spaghetti or tagliatelle.

If you have individual oven-proof dishes by all means use them for an impressive presentation. Our photo shows two portions of the recipe.

2 servings

2 handfuls of wholewheat pasta such as fusilli or penne

Olive oil

2 handfuls of sliced mushrooms

2- 3 shallots, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

50 ml white wine

100 ml chicken stock

1 tsp. Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

3 handfuls of baby spinach leaves

1 small mozzarella ball

2 handfuls of grated parmesan


Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in a   sauté pan over medium heat. Fry the mushrooms until they start releasing some liquid. Add the shallots and garlic and continue sautéing for 5- 10 minutes stirring now and again. Add the white wine, chicken stock, herbs, and some black pepper. Reduce the heat for simmering.


Meanwhile cook the pasta, cut the mozzarella into eight chunks and grate the parmesan. When the pasta is cooked, drain it and add to the sauté pan. Add the spinach and continue sautéing until the spinach has just wilted. 


Preheat the oven to 210°C, roast.


Transfer the pasta and vegetables into an oven- proof dish and fold in the parmesan. Scatter the mozzarella chunks among the pasta and vegetables. Roast for 5- 10 minutes until the mozzarella has melted. 


Monêtier-les-Bains: Around Aguillette du Lauzet

 

Aguillette du Lauzet
Aguillette du Lauzet


The following loop around the Aguillette du Lauzet Mountain (2717 m) is nicely described in Bernard Ranc’s great hiking guide Les plus belles randonnées des Alpes du Sud. The village of Le Lauzet is situated just some km northwest of Monêtier les Bains and less than 10 min by car. 

For most hikers, the biggest attraction seemed to be Le Grand Lac (2282 m), north of Le Lauzet. The starting point, Le Pont de l’Alpe (1710 m), for both hikes is by the main D1091 road.

Ascent from Pont de l'Alpe GR50
Ascent from Pont de l'Alpe GR50
L'Alpe du Lauzet
L'Alpe du Lauzet
Above l'Alpe du Lauzet
Above l'Alpe du Lauzet
Northern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet
Northern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet
Leaving GR57 for Col de l'Aguillette
Leaving GR57for Col d'Aguilllette

We started along the wide GR50 trail, having the steep western flank of the mountain to our right. At l’Alpe du Lauzet (1940 m), one trail forked left to the lake. We climbed northeast, towards Col du Chardonnet, following Torrent du Rif. There was a renown via ferrata to our right, and some climbers took advantage of that.

At the next crossroads (signpost), at about 2220 m, we reached the GR57 trail and forked right. We continued towards Col du Chardonnet. After several bends, we saw the unmarked trail at about 2400 m and forked right (image), leaving the GR57, and climbed to Col de l’Aguillette (2534 m). We continued almost horizontally along the eastern flank. Some parts of the trail were a bit exposed and the trail was narrow. 

Col de l'Aguillette
Col de l'Aguillette
Viewing Les Ecrins from Col de l'Aguillette
Viewing Les Ecrins from Col de l'Aguillette
Eastern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet
Eastern flank of Aguillette du Lauzet
Ibexes on Aguillette du Lauzet
Ibexes on Aguillette du Lauzet
View to La Guisane Valley
View to La Guisane Valley
Descending to GR50
Descending to GR50
Chemin du Roy GR50
Chemin du Roy GR50

We ignored the optional detour to the sub summit (2611 m). There were several ibexes on the nearby incline. We then followed the trail down to the valley and found a great spot for our picnic by the trail. We had super views south to the Ecrins Massif.


We descended along a path in the Rif Lanterne Valley until we reached GR50. We forked right and followed the comfortable path (Chemin du Roy), part of it in a magnificent forest, back to l’Alpe du Lauzet. We then descended back to our starting point.


Climb: 850 m


Distance: 10,7 km


Duration: 4h 50


Map: 3535 OT Névache Mont Thabor  


Aguillette du Lauzet hike track
Aguillette du Lauzet hike track



French toast with Parma ham and tomato vinaigrette

 

French toast with Parma ham and tomato vinaigrette
French toast with Parma ham and tomato vinaigrette

This twist of the classic French toast is inspired by a recipe of the Cheval Blanc restaurant in Paris. I have simplified the original recipe by Choosing avocado instead of green tomato sorbet and Italian passata to the tomato vinaigrette instead of making this from scratch. And of course, I use olive oil instead of butter.

This very tasty dish makes a nice lunch served with a green side salad.

2 servings

1 avocado, sliced

4 slices of Parma ham

Basil leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

For the tomato vinaigrette:

150 ml Italian passata, pref. organic

2 tbsp. good Italian balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp. tasty olive oil, pref. organic

For the French toast:

2 large slices of whole wheat toast

2 eggs

50 ml milk

Olive oil for frying


First make the tomato vinaigrette by whisking together the passata, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil. Keep in the fridge until needed.


Warm a generous amount of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Whisk together the eggs and milk and soak the toast slices in it. Fry until golden brown on both sides.


Meanwhile wash and slice the avocado.


Divide the tomato vinaigrette into two bowls and place the toast slices in the middle. Top with folded Parma ham slices, avocado, and some basil. Grind over some black pepper and serve.  


 


Ceillac: Lac Miroir

La Miroir eastern shore
Lac Miroir eastern shore

 Ceillac (1640 m) is an authentic Alpine Village in the heart of the Queyras Regional Natural Park. The renowned GR5 long distance hiking trail runs through Ceillac. The small village is surrounded by a wide valley with some agricultural and livestock activity.

Towards southeast, the Mélézet Valley is narrower, and is surrounded by steep forested mountain flanks. The GR5 trail starts to climb from Pied du Mélezet, close to a high waterfall, Cascade de la Pisse. 

We have previously hiked from Ceillac along the GR5 to the Ste-Anne Lake and Col Girardin. Today’s hike was much shorter, perfect on a day when thunderstorms were forecasted for the afternoon.

GR5 from Pied du Mélezet
GR5 from Pied du Mélezet
GR5 near Lac Miroir
GR5 near Lac Miroir
Swiss pine and Lac Miroir
Swiss pine and Lac Miroir

From Pied du Mélezet (1680 m), we ascended steeply in the woods along the GR5. The trail did not level out until just before Lac Miroir (2214 m). It was surrounded by Alpine meadows, larches, and Swiss pines, pinus cembra. In the south, were the majestic mountain massifs of Pics de la Font Sancte (3385 m) and Pic des Heuvières (3271 m).


After the lake, we forked left at a signpost (image), leaving the GR5. We descended rapidly along a nice path, then came to a wide gravel track. Poles were good to have as the descent was steep. Some guides instruct to continue along the track all the way to the valley, to Cime du Mélezet, then back to the starting point.


We took a shortcut along a path under a ski lift, and headed directly to Pied du Mélezet.


Signpost near Lac Miroir
Signpost near Lac Miroir
Trail back from Lac Miroir
Trail back from Lac Miroir
Pied du Mélézet and Ceillac
Pied du Mélezet and Ceillac

Duration: 3h 

Climb: 550 m

Distance: 7,5 km

Map: 3637 ET Guillestre


Lac Miroir hike track
Lac Miroir hike track


Veal cutlets stuffed with pesto

 

Veal cutlets stuffed with pesto


For this dish, you will need very thin veal or turkey cutlets. The ones which you find in supermarkets are pretty thick but they can easily be flattened at home. Place the cutlets between two film sheets and flatten with a baking roller or by gently pounding with your fist.

2 servings

2 large and thin veal or turkey cutlets

Olive oil

For the stuffing:

A handful of chopped parsley and basil

2 tbsp. grated parmesan

2 tbsp. sliced almonds

1 tsp. capers

1 tbsp. olive oil

½ clove garlic, minced

For the sauce:

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 shallot, minced

100 ml white wine

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Freshly ground black pepper


Preheat the oven to 200° C roast.


With a handheld mixer, purée all the stuffing ingredients. The stuffing does not need to be totally smooth. Divide it on the cutlets, fold them and fix with a cocktail stick. Place the cutlets in an oiled oven-proof dish and drizzle over a little olive oil. Roast for 20 minutes.


Meanwhile make the sauce. Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat and sauté the shallot for 5- 10 minutes. Add the white wine, mustard, and some black pepper and cook until reduced.


Divide the cutlets on the plates and pour the sauce over. Serve with roasted sweet potato slices or black rice and some greens.