Pralognan la Vanoise: Col Rosset hike

 

Col Rosset


Compared with the famous Col de la Vanoise (2516 m) which lies on a large alpine meadow, Col Rosset (2545 m) is a narrow mountain pass with steep flanks on both sides. Therefore, the trail there is more challenging, with some exposed stretches.

Starting from Pralognan la Vanoise (1410 m), we decided to use the cable car to Mont Bochor (2022 m). Hiking from the village would increase the climb about 600 m. It is also possible to drive or take the shuttle bus to les Fontanettes (1640 m), and further the Génépi chair lift to Barmettes (2000 m), the latter not in service every day. 


Mont Bochor
Mont Bochor
Trail before Col Noir
Trail Before Col Noir









Trail #10 to Col Noir
Trail #10 to Col Noir

Almost at Col Noir
Almost at Col Noir

Grande Casse viewed from Col Noir
Grande Casse viewed from Col Noir
Vanoise Glacier seen from Col Noir
Vanoise Glacier seen from Col Noir






From Mont Bochor, we descended a few minutes to a crossroads, and started to climb along trail nr 8, mostly following the ski runs. We walked past the Ancolie ski lift upper station and a signpost at 2332 m where we took the right-hand trail (straight), now nr 10 in the Pralognan hiking guide. The trail became rockier and steeper after a patch of snow. We reached Col Noir, then continued along an exposed trail along a steep mountain flank. A chain was attached on the mountain side for extra security. However, the stretch was completely ok in good and dry weather.

Exposed part of trail to Col Rosset
Exposed part of trail to Col Rosset

Near Col Rosset

View to east from Col Rosset
View to east from Col Rosset

Descent from Col Rosset
Descent from Col Rosset












We climbed to Col Rosset which offered extraordinary views of the glaciers and the Grande Casse Massif. From Col Rosset, the initial descend to east was steep, then levelled off and we passed another stretch of snow before reaching Chalet des Gardes, just a small hut. We then descended rapidly to the GR55 trail which we followed to Refuge des Barmettes. We had an excellent late lunch on the terrace of Barmettes. From here, we climbed along trail nr 11 back to trail nr 8, and completed the loop. We took the Mont Bochor cable car back to Pralognan Village.


Col Rosset in background
Col Rosset in background
  
Barmettes


Trail #11 to Mont Bochor
Trail #11 to Mont Bochor
      Climb: 820 m
     Distance: 10 km
     Duration: about 5 h active
     Map: 3534 OT Les Trois Vallées








Col Rosset hike
Col Rosset hike







Toast with pea purée and soft-cooked egg


Toast with pea purée end soft-cooked egg


Avocado toast is a popular healthy recipe for a simple and quick meal. In France, a small number of avocados are grown but usually the avocados in French supermarkets are imported. Their quality is very variable; from hard unripe to already dark end over-ripe so not always edible and smashable. 

I have seen some French recipes which replace avocados with peas. The following pea purée is my Mediterranean twist as it has a healthy amount of good olive oil. For a simple lunch, serve the bread slices with a mixed side salad.

2 servings

2 slices of rye bread or whole wheat toast

300 ml peas, fresh or frozen

A pinch of pressed garlic

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 tbsp. fromage blanc or thick Greek yoghurt, 0% fat

2 soft- cooked eggs


Cook the eggs for 6 minutes in boiling water. Peel them and set aside.


Microwave the peas for a few minutes until defrosted. Add the garlic, some black pepper, olive oil, and fromage blanc. With a hand- held mixer, purée the peas into a nice consistence.


Divide the pea-purée on the bread slices and top with a soft- cooked egg.


Pralognan: Col de la Vanoise hike

 

GR55 over Lac des Vaches


Situated at the foot of the imposing Grande Casse (3855 m), Col de la Vanoise (2517 m) is probably the most visited site in the Vanoise National Park.

Historically the col was a trading route between France and the Piemonte region. The long-distance hiking trail GR55 runs through the mountain pass.

The GR55 ascends from the village of Pralognan la Vanoise (1410 m), but most visitors doing day hikes use either the Fontanettes parking (1640 m) or even the Genépi chair lift to Barmettes (at about 2000 m) as their starting point. The chair lift ran on certain days only.






We chose the third option. The cable car to Mont Bochor (2022 m) which ran every day in summer took us up in a few minutes. From Mont Bochor, we first descended along a trail which ran diagonally along the mountain flank (sentier balcon; nr 12 in the local guide), then ascended to Refuge des Barmettes. We continued along the wide GR55 trail (nr 14 in the guide), heading northeast. The scenery became more and more high alpine and we reached Lac des Vaches (2330 m). Flat rocks had been placed in the middle of the semi-dry lake to facilitate the crossing.


From the lake, the GR55 turned east then southeast passing Lac Long.  The col and the refuge soon emerged in front of us in the middle of verdant alpine meadows.  We could admire La Grande Casse in the north and the Vanoise Glacier in the south. It was a truly remarkable scenery.


We used the same itinerary back to the cable car.


Climb: 720 m


Distance: 14 km


Duration: 5 h 30


Map: 3534 OT Les Trois Vallées

















Roasted winter squash and green lentils

 

Roasted winter squash and green lentils


The following simple and healthy lunch is perfect to make in autumn and winter when butternuts and other winter squashes are in season. The dish has plenty of heart- healthy vegetable protein from green lentils. Serve it with a green side salad and rye bread for a balanced and light meal.

2 servings

A wedge of winter squash or ½ butternut

Olive oil

120 ml green lentils

500 ml chicken or vegetable stock

3 tbsp. fromage blanc 0% fat or thick Greek yoghurt

Juice of ½ lemon

Chopped fresh herbs or baby rocket leaves


Preheat the oven to 180°C, roast.


Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium heat in a saucepan and sauté the onion and garlic for a few minutes. Add the stock, dried herbs, and green lentils and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat somewhat and cook, partly covered, for about 30 minutes until the lentils are soft but not falling apart.


Peel the squash wedge or ½ butternut and cut into nice slices. Place 1 tbsp. olive oil in a plastic bag, add the squash slices and shake. Pour the squash slices in a single layer on an oven tray and roast for about 30 minutes until soft.


Place the fromage blanc in a small bowl, add the lemon juice and whisk together.


Divide the cooked lentils on the plates discarding any lingering liquid. Place the roasted squash slices on top and sprinkle with fromage blanc-lemon juice dressing. Decorate with fresh herbs.


Pralognan la Vanoise: Cirque du Génépy hike

Glacier du Génépy





In the Vanoise National Park (Savoie), glaciers are major attractions. The hike named Cirque du Génépy features a trail which circles below the Génépy Glacier, part of the larger Vanoise Glacier.

View to Les Prioux Pralognan
View to Les Prioux Pralognan
Chavière Valley
Chavière Valley
Trail above Montaimont
Trail above Montaimont
Torrent from Génépy Glacier
Torrent from Génépy Glacier
Cirque du Génépy trail
Cirque du Génépy trail
Génépy Glacier seen from trail
Génépy Glacier seen from trail
Génépy Glacier western edge
Génépy Glacier western edge
Descent from Cirque du Génépy
Descent from Cirque du Génépy




Starting from the very last parking in the Chavière Valley (Pont de la Pêche 1767 m), we headed to Montaimont (1900 m) along a dirt track (Trail nr 39). Here, at a crossroads we followed trail nr 42 which followed a torrent named Ruisseau de Travers. We climbed along the verdant and humid mountain side, with the stream deep in a gorge sculptured by the Glacier du Génépy's glacial waters.


We passed a signpost (trails 41 and 42), and climbed a bit further crossing two wood bridges. We came near a flatter area below the glacier, the moraine, partly covered with ice/snow, and debris. The glacier was not far from us.


Here, at little over 2300m, we took a long picnic break before returning to the signpost where we now took trail nr 41, then nr 40 passing near Montaimont, and finally nr 39 back to our starting point.


Climb: 730 m


Distance: 10 km


Duration: 5 h


Map: 3534 OT Les Trois Vallées


Cirque du Génépy hike track
Cirque du Génépy hike track










Braised chicken à la Cordon Bleu

 

Braised chicken à la Cordon Bleu


The inspiration to this recipe was a news clip on the French morning TV, Télématin, about the famous Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris. The students were cooking a whole chicken in the oven in a heavy enamelled cast-iron pot such as Le Creuset or Staub. An oval pot is best for a whole chicken which in France is always trussed already when you buy it.

The chicken was cooked together with new potatoes and vegetables and was partly covered with wine and chicken stock. It was regularly basted with the cooking liquid. The result is flavourful, tender chicken meat. 

This simple cooking method is fantastic for the colder months and bad weather when you would anyway stay at home. While watching over the chicken, you can do some yoga or stretching!

Ingredients for 4 servings

1 whole organic or free-range chicken, poulet fermier, about 1,3- 1,5 kg

Olive oil

1 tsp. dried Provençal herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

250 ml white wine

250 ml chicken stock

2 handfuls of small new potatoes

4 carrots, cut into pieces

1 onion, chopped 

2 cloves garlic, minced

1-2 handfuls of small mushrooms


Preheat the oven to 190°C, roast.


Rub the chicken with olive oil. Remove the extra fat around the cavity of the chicken. Place some aluminium foil around the tips of the legs; it is easier to lift the chicken and spoon cooking liquid over the bird when basting.


Warm 2 tbsp. olive oil in the pot over medium heat and gently sauté the vegetables. Add the herbs, black pepper, white wine, and stock and stir. Nestle the chicken among the vegetables.


Transfer the pot uncovered to the oven for 1h 30 minutes. Baste the chicken regularly, every 15- 20 minute, with the cooking liquid. Cover with aluminium foil if some parts of the chicken start getting too dark. 


Transfer the chicken to a cutting board, carve and divide on the plates. Divide the vegetables and spoon some cooking liquid over the chicken. If you are cooking only for two persons, the left-overs make a nice meat next day.  Simply reheat gently the covered pot in the oven. A green side salad goes nicely with the chicken and vegetables.



Braised chicken à la Cordon Bleu served
Braised chicken à la Cordon Bleu served


Petit Mont Blanc

 


Petit Mont Blanc (2680 m) near Pralognan la Vanoise (1410 m) is one of the mountain tops in the renowned region which can be easily reached along marked hiking trails. The summit is covered with gypsum, hence the name.

Trails to the summit start from the Chavière Valley, a few km south of the village. In the summer high season there’s a free shuttle bus to Les Prioux (1711 m) from Pralognan la Vanoise. The road is paved, and there are some spacious parking areas.

Les Prioux Pralognan
Les Prioux Pralognan
Path near Les Prioux
Path near Les Prioux
Chavière Valley Pralognan
Chavière Valley Pralognan
Path to Col du Mône
Path to Col du Mône
Glacier du Génépy viewed from trail
Glacier du Génépy viewed from trail
Col du Mône
Col du Mône

We used the shortest variant starting just after Les Prioux at le Sécheron (1726 m), which was also the turning point of the shuttle bus.


We crossed the river and followed the signposted trail (number 59 in the local guide). The trail zigzagged in the Fôret Domaniale du Petit Mont Blanc but in reality, we crossed a few woods only in the beginning then continued along steep alpine meadows. Higher up, the trail became rockier.


We came to Col du Mône (2533 m), forked right and climbed to the summit. Some stretches were a bit exposed, and rain/ice/snow certainly would make the gypsum surface very slippery.

Gypsum on trail to Petit Mont Blanc
Gypsum on trail to Petit Mont Blanc
La Grande Casse seen from trail
La Grande Casse seen from trail
Near Petit Mont Blanc summit
Near Petit Mont Blanc summit
View towards Courchevel from Petit Mont Blanc
View towards Courchevel from Petit Mont Blanc
Petit Mont Blanc southern flank
Petit Mont Blanc southern flank
Pralognan seen from Petit Mont Blanc
Pralognan seen from Petit Mont Blanc

Petit Mont Blanc summit
Petit Mont Blanc summit



The region is famous for its glaciers, notably Glacier de la Vanoise. Luckily, our day was mostly clear and we could admire the remarkable scenery dominated by the glaciers and the highest peak, La Grande Casse (3855 m) in the northeast. 

We took the same trail back to our starting point. 


Climb: 950 m


Distance: 11 km


Duration: 5 h


Map: 3534OT Les Trois Vallées


Petit Mont Blanc hike track
Petit Mont Blanc hike track










Butternut squash with Parma ham and parmesan crumble

 

Butternut squash with Parma ham and parmesan crumble


This simple dish makes a delightful lunch or supper in autumn and winter. Serve with a green side salad and some good country bread.

2 servings

1 small butternut squash

Olive oil

A small handful of green beans

1 shallot chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

80 grams of Parma ham

Fresh chopped herbs to decorate

For the crumble:

A small handful of freshly grated parmesan

A small handful of dry breadcrumbs

Olive oil


Preheat the oven to 180° C, roast.


Cut the butternut squash in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Brush with olive oil and roast for about 45 minutes until soft.


Warm 1 tbsp. olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the shallot and garlic about 5 minutes. Top and tail the green beans and cut them into 2- 3 cm long pieces. Add to the pan and continue cooking for about 5 minutes until the beans are soft. Set aside.


Grate a small handful of parmesan and mix with equal amounts of dry bread crumbs. Add olive oil to make a crumble.


Chop the Parma ham into small pieces and mix with the green beans and shallots. Divide this mixture on the butternut halves and cover with the crumble. Roast in 220° C for about 5 minutes until the crumble is golden brown.


Remove from the oven and place on the plates. Decorate with chopped fresh herbs.